Laying stones in memory of the milestones of the millennium

I lay stones for the deaths of friends and family, but also for the death of societies or simple things like integrity.

I remember being told at 46 that I would never get a job in the financial industry again because I was too honest.

I'd known this for a while as during my handover I explained to a colleague that this was a list of the money we'd stolen from clients by accident because an interest marker had been missed on their account. He asked if the clients had noticed. I explained no, I'd found it and had started paying it back, some of it backdated 4-5 years.

He was a relatively new manager so when he asked me if the board were happy I laughed and said of course not. The Finance director was used to me highlighting bad news and a £500,000 hole which should've been spotted years earlier, had turned a mild case of diverticulitis into a perilous case of pereronitis.

Well that's ok for you but if we don't pay it then who will be upset, he asked. Only the clients I laughed and you'll be a star in the boardroom. They'd steal from their grannies and many of them have and I don't just mean a couple of measly Brussels sprouts out of granddad's flask down the allotment.

A week later I asked how he was getting on and he proudly told me he'd binned all my hard work. I jokingly said I had another copy and would forward it to whoever he wanted to do the job. One old granny was actually on the list and due £42,000. He declined, I shrugged and made a couple of the payments myself.

 What this sychophantic fool failed to realise was that our finance director had worked for Maxwell in the past and had paid out redundancy to someone he was supposed to fire on a trumped up charge. He resigned on returning to the UK having done what he thought the right, proper and just thing. 

What I failed to realise is there are many paths. We don't all want to hold back the gargantuan growth we could get if we just ignored mistakes. By spending so much time on reconciliation, correction and compliance we are quite simply employing people in loss making activities. Integrity is a dangerous path to follow. Looking back over your shoulder makes it difficult to move forward. 

I was reminded of a wee reconciliation I'd performed at one of the Scottish banks in the 80's a year after the £600m debacle I helped solve at NatWest. My investigation led me to reconcile an amount of £2000+ that had been written off. It wasn't too difficult and after 4 hours it demonstrated we had overpaid some clients £30k and under invested for £32+ clients. One of them a woman in her 70's. Perhaps a granny perhaps not, but she was due £1800. I resigned shortly afterwards as the local supervisor was very embarrassed to see a temp credit people with the shares that they thought they'd bought. Apparently they needed to pass it up the line despite the deals having already docked.

I don't know what in my psyche said I should break rules because the truth as I saw it was that people had given money to a bank to invest so they should invest it. I guess I felt this ship had not sailed and I've seen it so I can correct it.

I don't know why I thought that I should be an Otto van justice pilot, but it's just how I am. I'm wrong to work in certain environments and certainly any where short changing is a key essential skill.

When I worked in the sweetie shop I always made a quarter pound of wine gums or toffee bon bons, a quarter pound. I tried to get it as close to but always above. That's how I'd been trained. Take a big bon bon out and put a smaller one but never go under. I think I'm just wired that way. Numbers can be correct. It might take time but you can always reconcile. 

It's like the race nights at the pub or the golf club. 3000 tickets bought £1500 paid in prizes £1500 left. Not £1430 because 'I don't know why'. You do know why as you check after each race. It takes seconds. It always balances because humans can make mistakes and checking them ensures they are corrected.

At the end of the day we usually, eat drink and sleep on the Camino and it's good to know the next day will be more honest toil walking followed by the same. 

The gravitational pull of the Camino is something I've accepted. In life it's ok to accept things. You don't need to question all the time you can listen to the teenage fan club no longer upright, and sing the refrain "it's alright" like a lullaby, over and over again.

Fromista to carrion des Los condes

We got a good walk into Burgos from Cardenuela Rio Pico with a coffee at Orbaneja a bonus.

Simon strolls towards Burgos on the river route.

It always looks closed, the albergue and when we reached el Decanso on the edge of Burgos, Mark was a great help with returning the coffee cups until simon nabbed them from him leaving him empty handed. His shaking was giving the cups a scare.

His interminable shakes had Simon a tad worried as he tripped over the numerous kerb stones. By the time we were sat in Leon he was fine!

First up we got to Burgos then got the bus to Fromista. I was gutted to miss the Castrojeriz to Fromista stage but Mark would've toiled and there was no bus bail out. There was a boat along the canal but sadly we had to miss it. We got a taxi after getting off the bus.

A great wee bar on the corner.

This is another bar but you get the idea.

The walk today was from the poblacion to Carrion des Los condes and we would take the river route. First stop would be 5km to the place in the woods. It was hard work for mark but it was all flat. The next stage was to the ermita or wee church place 1km from villalcazar de sirga. Again it's about 5-6km.

St Jacques always provides and so we had good fun on the first stretch as I timed myself doing a word game in a race between Mark catching us. Mark won as I finished just after he passed us. It helped educate our walking as Simon and I took 25 mins for the first stage and Mark 35 mins. All in it was about 1 hour for us and 1 20 for him so when we did the next stage in 1.10 we knew we had 25 mins to get the change of clothes and look inside the wee church.

Over the last 1500m we met a New Zealander who was going to get a taxi too for the last 6km. Mark and her were introduced and bingo Simon and I set off like a starters pistol had fired.

Unlike earlier where we felt we were going to have to wait it was now a race against Mark in a taxi. He passed us at the 2km post so he won the race to the bar but we felt pretty chipper he had only drink half his glass. It was a belting speed trial for us and we loved it. I wandered around to the albergue and checked in. A superb 4 bed room with a huge bathroom. Hats off to hostel Santiago as I've stayed here a few times and in 2011 I vowed not to return. I'm so glad I did as the room was superb. It was 80€ whether there were 3 or 4 people so excellent value.

Cardenuela Rio Pico to Burgos

This is the first moment I've had to update the blog as it's been full on for a while with making sure Mark's not left high and dry in the heat.

We got the bus #4 from Avenida la Paz having walked past the stop at plaza Espana as it said 28mins. 

We chuckled as it meant we had missed the bus by 2mins. I've thrown in the www.autosotoyalonso.com bus because we missed that by 20seconds. No idea where it was going but I look forward to hearing.

Yes you've guess we are going back the way from Burgos.

It's a time travel thing and as Simon and I walked in 3 times from Castanares we now know it's 1 hour to the best tortilla on the Camino. 

Bar Tropical is about 20 minutes from the cathedral and is just after you cross the footbridge.

The tortilla was so good Simon and I had another. €6 was brilliant too.

And the next day we walked back in and stopped at our usual cafe then got a bus at 5.30pm to Fromista

Camino week 3 - 2023 Oct

As I embark on week 3 it's really funny how much we've done.

The arrows are well positioned and the light is largely shining on what walks we've done.

Week 1 was Irun to San Sebastian and on to Bilbao.

It was beautifully brutal it every sense. The walking was tough with hills and also underfoot conditions. I walked the 44,000 steps from Irun twice and probably did nearly 50,000 the first day after taking a wrong turning at the outset. Leaving at 7am arriving at 6pm it was a good warm up for the week to come. We missed one stretch from markina to Guernica so will catch that next time. The biggest eye opener was probably that there were more places to stay than we thought although markina does have a shortage of facilities and so they offer rooms in houses. It's also most remote in terms of transport. Guernica on the other hand is easily reached from bilbao. Markina is probably best got to buy taxi from a tram stop although public transport via the coast is the option. It's definitely the new walk to do but weather dependent as the underfoot conditions make it very dangerous.

Week 2 saw us concentrate on the section from Pamplona to Logrono and was positively easy by comparison. Both distance and underfoot conditions were easy and using Estella as a base meant no pack either. I'd say we just kept ticking over and then stopping as the 30 degree heat was oppressive from 2pm onwards.

Week 3 starts with a day off bussing to San Sebastian then Bilbao before finally arriving in Santander for an evening on the tapas y vino.

Next day is an early bus to Burgos dump the bags and get walking along the river arlanzon and try to get 10-15km in before the heat does for us. The next day will see us try belorado to Monte's de oca. Then on Thursday Oct 5th make it to Cardenuela Rio Pico.

Thereafter we will go with the flow but hopefully make it to hornillos on Friday via a walk a bus and a walk before using fromista as a base for Friday/Saturday/Sunday 8th

Options will then exist to get to Leon for Monday 9th or getting train back up to santander before Gijon 11th

Management theory's good but in practice

Yes in practice how do we ensure we maximise the tools at our disposal so optimising the success of our venture.

In working or a walking context it's the same old story.

Do we buy the best poncho's, boots rucsac and sticks, stay in albergues or hotels to maximise the experience. Just like working the goal of walking a Camino might just be to trust in serendipity and let the experience unfold the answer.

Pamplona Estella Los Arcos Logrono buses and trains

I'll update the buses and trains section when I get back but the big news for today is I'm on the logrono - Estella - puente la Reina - San Sebastian - Irun bus that left logrono at 7.30am and leaves Estella at 8.15am arriving San Sebastian 9.45am.

The train from VITORIA-GASTEIZ to Pamplona is excellent but generally the network won't always work for pilgrims

We used Estella as a base for 2 nights a few years ago and this trip we did it for 4 nights. It worked well especially as the 4pm bus back from the new bus station in Logrono only took 40 mins.

It's a cracking town and just enough variety for pilgrims to be worth a few evenings.

Bus travel was easy and as long as you read the timetable correctly and you know what day it is you'll be fine.

Travelling back to puente la Reina you have the previously mentioned 8.15 express but also the bus that stops at maneru etc.

Our plan had been to walk mont del perdon then bus from puente la Reina but after a good rumble in Pamplona walking up from the train station it was apparently too hot and bloody stupid to head out at 14:00 in blazing sun. We did manage three walks and got the bus mostly or just walked into town or out of town.

The exception was a 45€ taxi to Sansol on the last day when we walked to Logrono.

Los arcos bound with Kevin the mad traveller

Great fun as always and we stumbled into Kevin who was clearly enjoying the break from fall in Wisconsin. I say fall out of courtesy and of course I mean autumn.

There was nothing autumnal about the weather today as the guage went up up and away. It started for us at 7am and it was borderline cool but by the time we climbed out of Estella to arrive at the imperious casa Luisa it was time for breakfast.

Next stop was the irache Fuentes, home of the free wine. 

Even an alcoholic like me doesn't want a glass of wine at 9am but I did put some in my water bottle, in that holy water and wine kinda way.

And then we walked out of villamayor de monjardin passing the church again and the sunflowers, down the hill and we marvelled at the lack of grapes.

After another few steps we were now in Los arcos and I was paraphrasing David Bowie.

Sitting in the market Square, god was gently crying. Pilgrims were sweating and yapping away but the earth well it was dying... it was 5 years......

....is that all we got....5 years.....

So I forgot to say Kevin is from Madison home of butch and Garbage and my tenuous link with Shirley Manson who may or may not have sang on the deadbeat tape with autumn 1904 or even the wild Indians with "maybe". He can ask next time he's in the co-op in Madison.

The bus stop is outside pension mavi. It's the best menu del dia for miles around so if you want to enjoy great food and wine head there. It's by the bus stop so no excuses even for the bus pilgrim.

So we waited on the bus and it turned up 2 minutes late at 17.07. I love thos Camino stuff and am so grateful for every day I get out here.

Tomorrow we will be riding on the 7:45 bus to sansol but who knows we might get off in Los Arcos but judging by the weather if we want to make logrono then we have to get moving early.

Buen Camino 

breakfast at casa Luisa Estella ayegui

An early start saw us finish breakfast by 8.30 as we headed to the water and wine fountain.

Casa Luisa is a lovely cafe on the edge of town.

We ate drank and left after using the luxurious facilities.

week 2 is the Camino Frances

And it's going to be fun.

We finish our Norte experience with a visit to the Basque capital VITORIA-GASTEIZ then it's off to Pamplona for a taste of the Frances.

We are based in Estella for 4 nights so will do 2 days before and 2 after in the heart of the Rioja, finishing in Logrono or possibly one last walk to najera.

The walks are adjusted to the temperature and the bus time table so 8.45am to maneru will be sept 29. Walk back into Estella about 2.30.

Saturday 30th will be 7.45 to Azqueta or  ayegui to los arcos for 13.30 bus back.

Sunday October 1st we will be to sansol and walk to viana. Again the temperature may dictate early start and finish.

If this proves difficult we will get the 8.45 bus to cizur menor and climb the hill mont del perdon and then get the bus along at 2pm from puente la Reina.

 We check out on October 2nd and will head off. Rich on the bus to San Sebastian and me for logrono then Santander.

 I'll meet my next Camino chums, Simon and Mark in santander and then we will base ourselves in Burgos for 3-7th before moving to Leon for 8-10th then Oviedo Gijon and back to santander for the 12th.

Updated Week 1 on the Camino norte

You can watch videos and read blogs but the 5 senses are squared as you take your first steps out of Irun and climb towards Guadalupe.

I did this walk twice 

The first time I got lost and on the second day with Rich it was easier, still magnificent marauding without sticks and it was tough 

The rewards are the views.

Vista upon vista and we loved it 

The climbing is tough with the views very much the reward.

The highlight both days was Paraia.

A small town which you cross by boat

The location is just so remote.

400 steps offer a climb to the lighthouse and it's easy to see why this would be the 6km short day if you felt the whole thing too tough.

Next day Zarautz and what about the views on the way.

Then zamaia and Deba with great views of other coastal towns on the way.

Toughest yet Deba to Markina.

We dodged markina to Guernica as we walked to lezema.

Rest day and the Gernika museum.

We took the mid afternoon train to Bilbao and did some walking and then checked into the flat. It was quite a whirlwind week and when Simon lost his fight with the stanley knife we knew we were into new options now. To sum up the Monday and Tuesday were great reminders for me on my own travelling. I usually lose things and my cashmere left my hand while I walk/ran from Poitiers airport to train station. The good thing was I made it and my passport was in my jacket which I didn't drop. Tuesday morning I was in despair about losing my glasses. I spent 6am to 7am scurrying around looking for them in the donativo albergue where I gave 20 euro so grateful wasI for a bed. I left my boxer shorts hanging on the peg in the shower room or maybe elsewhere but I was so preoccupied by my glasses I wasin bits. I'd sensibly put them on my bag but somehow never saw them until I'd conceded defeat. What elation as I left with no idea where I was going. Normally you see pilgrims but I was just so relieved I made up a direction and was 180 degrees wrong. Google maps straightened me out and by 8am I saw a pilgrim. The rest was much easier but I did really enjoy the freedom of being on my own with no rush. I bought sun cream in Paraia and had a menu del dia, all very sensible and leisurely. I continued on up the tough climb but with a great sense of plenty of time. I needed to arrive by 7pm or even later. The fun finally arrived as my hotel had two sides of the building for checking in and there were major roadworks outside. When I finally navigated around them I found that the door I needed was from whence I'd come. On this occasion looking up for hotel signs was wiser than fixation with google. All was well after I showered and chose a bed and rearranged everything. We were there for two nights so no problems in the morning packing. I got the train along met Rich got the train back and 4 mins from the station was perfect. In the morning we'd make the 7.45am train no problem and Rich would re-unite himself with the famous steps to the platform he'd slept on 40 years earlier, a typical camino moment! Wednesday we walked and in the evening Stu arrived. The usal chaotic plans of agreeing a time then changing it over the course of a few tapas leaves one confused. Rich and I woke quite sharp and after our day before were raring to head off. Stu was 10 mins away so we went down and woke him up and headed for a cafe. I just remembered the bizarre please look after my bag and drink conversation from the night before. Some dude explained he was dying as he ventured out for his fag and gave us our minder role. Traditional camino moment that has just returned. We had a great coffee in the bar, stu arrived and we soon headed off around the big bay and then up the steps and hill. It was amazing up the top. Views and pictures non stop. This kind of walking isnt exercise as you feel like a moving part on someone elses canvass and its just stunning. The initial part by the road was not much to our liking and the spray from the cars as the rain fell lightly would pt a few off but it was worth an hour or even less of that nonsense to enjoy the beauty that followed. We hadn't arranged the same deal for Thursday in Zarautz of doing 2 nights but as soon as I saw the place I said to the guys another 180 euros seems a lot but it is a bedroom each and the shower was perfect. At the time I also thought we would be 15 mins back on the tram from Deba but that changed when we learnt of the station work. Who knew we would pay 225euro for three of us later on in Leon for 3 nights but this area around San Seb is expensive. You make all sorts of excuses in your head driven by laziness, convenience and I'm a sucker for a washing machine. The head also really enjoys a break from the question where are we staying, oh and the kicker is not packing up and moving on. A day off these things helps so much and so enabled a bit of planning on where to stay next. On my own I am happy rolling into town but when there is 3 you can usually get a decent accomodation with someone getting a single or even as we had 3 bedroom places. My next flat trick was a bit of folly. We knew Markina had limited accomodation so when the opportunity to get another 3 bed place in Guernika appeared it seemed a no brainer. We could bus or tax from and back to Markina. We forgot it was Saturday and we also didn't realise that this was to prove the hardest walking day. By the time we got to Deba with the bus/tram we were heading off about 11am. It can be the downside of a two night stay leaving slower as you linger longer and then with the Zarautz tram station renovations we got the 9.20 bus to connect with the 10.40 tram, missing the earlier hourly train by 10 minutes. Happily we cold have a cortado or two at a nearby cafe in Zamaia. Cola Cao and Cortado look and sound very differently but trust me, not the way I or Stu speaks. I started adding an australian lift to Cola Cao, chocolate, and they looked at me in that pitying way reserved for clowns who couldn't wear the shoes or speak the language. Escotia, Stupido, perdone. The walk was undoubtedly our toughest yet but possibly because the heat had also been turned up as the rain was turned off. We also had our back packs and the terrain was always going up, then down, then back up. We were cutting through the interior to Markina and it was tough. There were a few falls on the really steep bits and it was all about going slowly enough to keep your feet. When we were walking we passed a few albergues that never feature when you're pushing the Booking button. Trust in St Jacques I say but apart from arriving at the albergue in Irun we were mostly packaged up. I'll put the prices below including when Rich & I headed to the Camino Frances. Irun - Donativo - $20 San Sebastien - £40 pppn - £166.07 for 2 nights Zarautz - £55 pppn - £166.07 (187$)+180euro for 2 nights Gernika - £37.50 pppn - £223 for 2 nights (256.50$) Bilbao - £36.50 pppn - $252 Vitoria Gasteiz - £19 pppn - $64.80 Estrella - £28 pppn- £224 for 4 nights - $257.05 Hostal Mexicana Santander - £21.50 pppn £64.50 for one night $71.82 Burgos - $168.30 - 2 nights (3 rooms in flat if you slept on sofa 2 bathrooms but leaky showers in one with bath) Cardenuela Rio Pico $22 pppn - $66 including menu del dia (3 lower bunks in dorm) Amanecer - Poblacion/Fromista $40pppn - $120 (3 ensuite rooms) Carrion de Los Condes - $27 pppn -$80 (Quadruple room with big bath/shower room) Housing Leon - $224 for 3 nights (3 bedroom flat with 2 bathrooms) Gijon - $22 pppn Hotel Castilla $66 (small triple room with ensuite) Santander - $20 pppn - $60 (big triple room with ensuite) I dissappeared down the accomodation rabbit hole there but it shows that there are often many options to go big or keep it simple. For me the bargain basement Leon is just so good. Its next to the cafe Epsolon in the part of Leon I always tend to try and go. My only complaint is I rarely get the train or bus back to terradillos des los templarios or Sahagun and walk. I have once made it to Astorga had a session and got bus back but I get lazy and walk to the Babu Africa bar or just around town but I digress. Having arrived on Saturday about 7pm in Markina we had to get a taxi. We had no idea how tough it would be but luckily Stu struck gold and we were in the apartment for 8pm and out by 8.45pm with the washing on the line. The taxi had cost $55 including tip so we were delighted but as the night wore on walking out of Gernika was winning the vote and Markina to Gernika would wait for another year. Markina was really busy on Saturday night and is a basque mecca as it is alone in the mountains a good 20 miles from the train stops to the South and South west. I think I'll book a hotel next year once I have my plans pinned down. So when we awoke on Sunday we had a leisurely walk to Lezema in mind and if it was too easy we'd carry on to Bilbao. Compared to the day before it was pretty easy mountanous bits and then the heat hit when we had the 4km roadway into Lezema. Train station won. We never even got a drink, or a toilet, we just got a ticket and jumped on 10 minutes later. Again an hourly train so worth taking it straight away. The journey was also a lot longer than expected. Lezema train comes in from the east and does a loop before you can then change onto a train slightly more SE ot of Bilbao to Gernika. Perfectly simple on the map. We go into Bilbao at 2 and leave at 5 on the clock face. Luckily the time wasn't that long but the toilet was in short supply and I'd drunk a lot of water. Suffice to say we should've got the train to Bilbao casco viejo, got off had a drink then got the train to Gernika, but we didn't. I held my bladder and then ran from train station to flat and finally got relief. More washing followed and as I kept mine inside it was dry while the others went for leaving it outside in the overnight cloud. It was a proper cloud when we woke up and you couldn't see the town for it. We were signtseeing today and took in the museum before a tram to Bilbao and a stroll around. Its obligatory to go to Cafe Iruna and so we did and then we went for a menu del dia. We got refused at the first place so went next door and were delighted. Serendipidy indeed. Finally we went to the flat where the guy met us gave us the keys and i took one look and thought, Dancer! The twin room and double room were to the front but an interior box room grabbed my attention so having had the doubles I took the box. The kitchen/living room was huge. A bit like the cockroach we saw on the morning we were leaving. I threw it out, arms up its back but it was over an inch long so put up a struggle on meagre me. We had a siesta then a drink on our balcony then headed into the old town. We had a great night then planned our strategy for walking around the town. Up to the bus stop via the river and guggenheim and then back down to town going up the hill away from the river and in and around all these wee bars and boulevards. Bilbao always has cheek by jowl new and old, merged at times, juxtaposed at times and stark contrast other times. All good for sight seeing. Then we climbed the big hill behind our flat and got to the top before coming down and having another excellent menu del dia.

ramuntchu et fat Al

Starting a Camino in style

There's no doubt the world is always changing and when on Camino it's usually for the better.

Best train journey ever

Camino packing tips 2007-2023

Ok there are loads of videos and many valuable pieces of information so feel free to ignore mine.

You've heard about the pinkie test. Yes lift your bag with your little finger.

Second up have you heard of shops? Whatever Camino you take there is usually a big city like Pamplona or San Sebastian within your first few days. If you really worry that you'll need nail clippers on arrival you probably need to get a taxi.

Simon Stu Scott and I found ourselves in the north lakes recently in Ousby. Notice how Simon carries his water. Plastic bottles we don't normally buy - but buy on Camino we do. Carry and drink, don't carry from town to town. Camel up at a tap.

The airlines have done us a favour by saying one small bag free. It's light and carries what you need. You will be carrying additional items like bread or water so handy poly or onion string bags, pegs etc are worthy. Some people use the laundry string bag. Smart people. Light, attachable and long enough for a loaf.

I took a picture of nail clippings before going on the Camino finisterre Muxia in April or was it September and fellow Pellegrino Simon thought, aha, yes, I'll do that. Another good trim worth considering is your hair.

Seriously though, you can buy nail clippers like sun screen, umbrellas and even walking poles so don't panic purchase before you leave. Spain is probably the same price or less. There are shops, hairdressers and it's nice to spend local. Talking of spending, I've moved over to phone cash, so whether you're Google or apple pay it's normal and I think much more equitable. I used to carry a pre paid card but now it's just cash and or phone cash when I want to buy coffee or Crocs.

Crocs are universally worn and sold so if you have a pair you want to bring please do but you might not need them for a few days. Yesterday's socks are my crocs and on old stone floors, just as cosy.

I like olives and I frequently buy things I need to put in boxes. I've seen myself carrying boxes of poly bags squirted with bite cream, sun cream, after sun, foot cream. I really was a tad precious on 2013, but I was keeping room for my lap top and charger! I don't want to advocate too many plastics but whenever you stay in an albergue or a flat you buy things that you leave and some you want to take. Cheese needs a box, just like olives and slices of tomato.

Electrics are funny. We can't have enough technology to capture the moments but I'm back to minimalist now. I live vicariously through others you tube films and can admire their work while still feeling the moments in this albergue or that cafe iruna in Bilbao or pamplona, Cardenuela Rio Pico or Ponferrade and how about the rain on the north coast or in Galicia. I've great memories of Camino pals from the 20+ times I've joined the pellegrino gang. When I scope the route briefly and see a hill I immediately recoil to my smoking days pre 2005. I cough, splitter and generally think, time for a taxi, but most of all, I smile and say bye bye lap top.