O’CEBREIRO

Llanes

Back in Leon

After ocebriero it's an easy climb to the centre here - foods good too

Sun stroke in Ambasmestas

What's not to like about a journey and the Camino teaches you everything you ever wanted to know.

We got to the airport and we got on a plane

We got to the airport early had 3 pints and got on the plane

We got on the plane and had a glass of wine

We got off the plane and had a few more glasses of wine

We tried to check into our accommodation but unfortunately it was closed

We got off the plane we got off the bus and we went to the pub and drank wine. I always say St Jacques provides, not always what you were looking for but the invisible hand of fate is funny.

We went to 5 pubs and then found the nightclub and drank wine before rushing for a taxi in the rain to get the 3:45 bus to San Sebastián.

This cost €16 which was a lot less than the accommodation so we had breakfast and spent eight euros on croissant and coffee while we watched the waves splash and crash and bash against the shore

Then we got the bus to Pamplona and we saw lots of snow on the mountains.

We arrived in Pamplona and then went for a coffee and then started to walk the rest is history

We made it all the way over the hill to Muruzábal bar where we had an enjoyable chase around the village to find the owner of the casa where we stayed. Tomorrow we hope to get to Lorca. Casa was €70 and we had a room each. Dinner was tapas and wine €23. What a joy


Lunch late Friday Lorca- we found our twin room with shared bathroom was 40€ and our lunch was 15. I love the place but we walked on having said hi again to our man at the bar who waved us on with a gift of two bottles of water. He wanted to give us beer but we were happy for the clear stuff. We got to villatuerta and went to alberguelamagica.com where I had stayed before. Sadly they were closed so we had another beer then walked back across the bridge and a nearby casa muskildialabdextea but it was rented for the week so we took advice at the new Buen Camino bar and hit the hourly bus at 18:55. The bus leaves from the Lorca side of the river and heads that way too before doubling back at the main road. Oh how we laughed as we thought we may indeed stay in Lorca, St Jacques after all does provide.

We finally arrived in Estella after 12 swaying minutes, as the driver headed home for tea. We jumped off and hit hostel Cristina where Harry once changed the light bulbs for the wee old lady who ran the place. At 45€ for a double it seems the prices haven't moved on so I'd reckon I should revise my 'don't stay here' to please do! We saw another Hostal which looked superb. It's parallel with the posh hotel other side of the church. Anyone doing the cash check will see how much we've spent and this year it's not bad. The accommodation experience is to try to average 25-30 now. It used to be 500€ for 25-30 days but now I'd recommend €750-800. If you like a bit more luxury lump on but as with birdies at golf - if you rough it for a night it takes a few double bogeys off the card later on when you spend €60 a night.

Back to the cash for Friday - puente la Reina - jakue bacon rolls and tea €6:40, cafe & cake by bank €5.40 albergue Lorca €15 tea juice and soup. Evening in the bar's was brilliant. My favourite being the winner of our 2011 food on the Camino awards. Over the pointy bridge we arrive at 20:04 and the platters of tapas and ponchos arrived immediately. Pincho and vino €2.50 - €12 later (extras a must!) we went to the rock n roll bar (5) then we went to another classic (4) then on to a place where they gave us free chips so we had two (8) then a single on the way back (3) - €32 for a few glasses of wine and a great Estella pub crawl. Home at 12:30 meant a long lie! So cash in kitty less today's spend of €116 including bus fares.

Saturday Monjardin and the laziest walk ever of 10km in 3 hours. Brekky for 9€ in Pan on way out, then some pilgrim wine, lentils and chorizo at azcueta with tea 15€ set us up for the new albergue which was 30€ for us. Cash is lasting well and the gap from private facilities and albergue is narrowing. 6€ for a lavadora and dryer a joy and the place is so clean and modern, we did the rustic charm of the old albergue 8 years ago.

Did I mention it's a wee bit more commercialised? Well it is and so I mention cash as it's the question most often asked instead of snoring which I consider essential.

Numbers are easier to describe than zzzz's or zxzxzxXz's as snoring interruptions are described.

Sunday is Torres del Rio or sansol- where a new albergue was built recently. We will walk, talk and go for old or new. Now we've had our washing done we might do old, ha ha!

We went for new and it's a spacious new albergue with 10 bunk beds or 20 smelly pilgrims. Tonight my guess is 14 smelly pilgrims. We've taken a trip over to Torres del Rio and started furthest away from sansol and will have a few snifters on the way back. At 3.50 for wine and olives you can tell we will have a doddery walk back. Tonight the albergue is 10€ and 12 for our meal. Having spent very little 6€ on banana & tea, juice and cake at the halfway house and then €8 in los Arcos it's a cheap day. We put 50 each into today's kitty and it's still pretty full.

Dinner for 12€ should sort that out. Only a cup of wine and Stu went for the 3€ supplement of steak while I chose cod. Brilliant food and the wine must've been ok as we had 4-5 refills. Bar closed on us about 9:45 so it'll be brekky at 7:45.

Monday is logrono and being last out the albergue has its uses. There's a bit of rain and so we walk in the low cloud but luckily most of it has been through the night. The early risers may have dashed off into the dark with their head torches and torch screen wipers but I like our leisurely approach.

The walk to Torres del Rio last night was a great refresher for the terrain, so we knew what we were up against

We took a leisurely approach after breakfast which was just as well

We left home at 8:30 to descend then ascend into Torres del Rio

This is the story of the short walk to Viana. Up-and-down up-and-down then do you hours 30 minutes later you arrive, Have tortilla and reflect on some fantastic vistas. A great walk, if a bit of a lung buster, unlike the €5.80 bill for teas and tortillas, in El Bordon of Viana, reassuringly reasonable with a great spacious wc to change the wet clothes!

The next two hours twenty takes you gently into Logroño.

We stay at hostal redonda but can recommend albergue entresuenois. Our hostal is opposite the church and handy for st Juan and Calle Laurel. We turned left and went to Calle Laurel. The tapas bars are still superb although the prices have changed. Nowadays 2 tapas and 2 wines will rock in at 10€. Paganos skewers were reassuringly still a bargain and we had a great plate of pimiento padrons at the bottom of Calle Laurel.

An early night saw us in bed before 12 and 3€ breakfast at cafe moka at 9am. We must be getting older to get up this early! Great orange juice, coffee and pastry. What's not to like.

Another stop at 10:30 in the middle of the carefully tended gardens and lake on the west side of Logroño sees us with tea and a shared bocadillo and change from €5. We should get to navarette by 1pm ventosa by 3:30 and Najera by 6. Whether we get to Azofra by 8pm will be decided by legs!

Having sat down at 12:20 for a snack in Navarette we felt quite emboldened. Another tea with sugar, a bit of bread, tortilla and we should get on our merry way by 1pm no problem. It's only 12-13km so we should've done it in under 4 hours with breaks but often one hill lasting 2km can ruin it as we found yesterday.

The long joked about 4.3km to ventosa takes 90minutes excluding half time so we will see today if we can have a menu del dia and get out by 3:30pm.

Arriving at 2.10 we took a long lunch before leaving at 3pm. The skies were darkening but we'd had pasta and an ice cream so felt wings in our shoes. We danced down the hill from Ventosa, passed the bodegas and head out towards the woods. The walk takes you through vineyards and gives fantastic views of the region. As we approached the uphill section through rocks small and large we felt a cyclist approach but having stepped aside we watched him dismount and take an eternity so battered on to the top. As we made our way down again we felt the silent assassin's breath and stepped aside as he bounced down the trail. The skies darkened all around and we quickly got the jackets out. It's hoses down and there was no shelter for 2km. Eventually a tree offered some pilgrim retreat and we gathered to exchange stories. As the weather improved we moved on. 2km later the heavens opened again and St Jacques greeted all over us. I took sanctuary in the stone shelter while Stu dadded on.

We met up at Franco II and after a couple of coffees set off again to see if we could do the full 40km.

After 50,000+ steps we arrived 19:30.

11€ meals followed and so did a lock on our twin room

So bizarre

We sleep on living room floor as st Jacques provides- ha ha

We were last into the albergue and got unpacked showered and off to the pub. By 8pm we were pint in hand, ordering our meal and by 9:30 stumbling back with a bottle of tinto in our hands. We stood chatting with an English couple who were in the hotel. Wine drinkers they were and buying it by the case! We said goodbye goodnight as we had a curfew.

We entered to find our washing fresh out the dryer and to our delight we folded it all neatly and opened the wine.

As we went up to the room we discovered the padlock. Never a good sign but I guess it was for the unused rooms, oh, and our room, with our bags on the bed and tooth brush, oh shit.

Back downstairs to sleep in the living room then, ouch!

My favourite albergue has many a delight in store and st Jacques always provides.

I like a big day and this could be it. Stu and I rolled into azofra at 7:30pm one year and we got placed in the annex this year we went one better as we tried to rival Harry's cuatro puntos of 2011.

Wednesday Santo Domingo was a real struggle as my foot played badly. We got the bus to Villafranca Montes de Oca and took the hotel option. Hopefully the foot works tomorrow.

Thankful for small mercies I was when I strolled through for a bath at 7:50. The foot was working and after the bath felt great. Breakfast was a pot pourri of coffee toast orange juice scrambled omelette and cold sausages. I had corn flakes as well. By 10am we left and joked over to st Juan for 1pm. A selfie then off to Ages and then atapuerca. Climb the hill and lay a stone for loved ones before descending to villaval and Cardeñuela Rio pico.

A superb catch up with new pals around dinner as well as old friends in the hopitalero and her son,

We stopped at cardenuela Rio pico to have an easy stroll Friday to Burgos - meet up with Andy and Keith then on to rabe for 2pm poss Bus at 1pm? Walk to Hornillos del Camino .

Like all plans revisions are made. The hangover was everything. The first question was how we got to bed but the second was even more telling. How do you get up? The head wasn't too good and the limbs weren't either. Finally a struggle to stagger to the shower was rewarded with some cold water a shriek and some order being restored. We had a big room and the carnage on the floor ensured we took full advantage.

I strolled out to my favourite Albergue in Orbaneja but sadly it's closed. My belly probably was grateful to avoid breakfast, breathing was tough enough. I waited 5 minutes puffing on a bench but Stu was a bit further back so I hauled my sorry self on down the trail.

We took the river route so turned left at the airport and showed a few lost people where the river was before heading to a cafe for some food and ablutions. The referral route is not that easy to find. After you come out of the airport you are mate but I am in the road in and you have to cross it go sleep then left then straight for 200 m, then turn right at the allotments. Then you cross the river and a field by the motorway and then go with the river under the motorway before finally being alone in a country park all the way into central Burgos. This route does finally swing back to join the Camino before you hit the bus station but if you did want to check bus times its quite handy!

We checked into the Albergue to do our washing and give the guests an albergue experience but ours put us off and so we checked out and into the new apartments. Just as well, Keith and Andy has been up at 5am and after a stroll around Bilbao and the 3pm bus they were ready for comfort and not a clarty noisy albergue. Shame really but sometimes you have to roll with the blows and the luxury was superb. Sadly getting into our rooms with the new keyless technology was less fun. We went back to hotel via gotica and they gave us the master key. Like toilets on trains there's a bit of over engineering going on. While the Americans famously devised a pen that could work in zero gravity for the space programme the Russians used a pencil. Locks are quite simple mechanisms especially toilets, but obviously digital displays are deemed to enhance the customer experience, except the blind who have their own lock under the handle in their toilets, not! Yes the blind get to hit door open, door lock, door still widen open. But I digress. We changed and hit the town, with the guys seeing some of my favourite tapas bars. Early to bed as the walking plans evolved. Not quite as early for Andy and Keith as the room lock and key necessitated another intervention from the hotel staff.

Had we done the walk from Rabe to Hornillos Saturday was hornillos to Castrojeriz for lunch then to itero for 4:30. As it was we took a taxi to Rabe for breakfast. The owner watched us get out of the cab and proceeded to give us a feast of leftovers for 28€. This is more like it! We left at 9am and reached Hornillos at 10:30, left at 10:55and arrived hontanas at 1:30. A lovely Irish lassie has taken over the hostal on the left by the church. Sadly her soup wasn't ready so we went to the old favourite from 2007 and had a menu del dia with wine. 44€ later we stomped on out to Castrojeriz at 2:40. The sun was hot and itero felt a pipe dream. We stopped for a juice at San anton and then did the last 3km to arrive 5:30. After a beer we checked into the hostal iacobus and beer tapas vino and sleep followed. The boys found a new bar for me which looked terrible but was superb - the owner a great host and the music to match.

Sunday itero to Fromista train 11:00 to Santander became a taxi from Castrojeriz. That's the Camino make a plan to break it. We had a great day and evening.

The taxi got us to town in good time and we were able to walk a bit of the canal, before putting the boys on their train. Stu and I then checked into the hostal / hotel and dumped the bags and walked back to boadilla. I took my pack to carry a few things including my wet socks hoping they would dry. It was a good stroll along the canal. We were going to try the canal boat but were delighted we didn't when we beat it comfortably over the 3km stretch. The final 2km took us to the stork rich church and en el Camino where we had a few beers and chilled, but not before we shouted after a woman heading the wrong way. Ear plugs clearly in, their friend chased after with her rucsac bouncing. I changed my chant to drop the rucsac but to no avail, how we laughed as we finished our beers. On the way out we met the couple from Stranraer, before heading to the albergue at the end of town. A quick drink, chat about the masters betting and we were off once more, back along the canal. No meandering off piste, although we were tempted to track down the missing pilgrims.

Back at the hotel we convinced the owner that Molinari was a great golfer and along with woods worth the watch on the masters. He put the big screen on and we were happy wee boys. With our bills for plates of cheese and ham along with beer and wine coming in about 70€ he knew he'd made the right decision!

Tiger won we got pissed and I was gutted for Molinari.

The next morning we took our time as Stu's train was 12 and I was only doing a short day, shorter as it turned out. Hay fever, some allergy, who knows what but my nose was dripping and wen the air got clammy, Villalcázar suddenly appealed.

I couldn't have been happier when the heavens opened as I lay in a bath - facilities I shared with my 25€ not en-suite room! I shared them with nobody until 6pm by which time I was warming to the menu del dia. A meal and a few drinks later it was 9pm and time to sneeze in my room.

I think an antihistamine would be a good idea, shame I didn't bring one!

Who knew the fast bus from Bilbao to Burgos also carries on to Carrion de los condes, And Leon! It's mobbed but I'm off a terradillos.

Not before we go to Saldana in an equilateral triangular route. Saldana has a wee refugee village or 150 caravans on the edge of town. In the centre there's a lovely park, river and large bus station, like Laredo.

The bus was not obligatory but I really felt it was the right idea. The other was to stay in Carrion. Both are probably ok as ideas but I'll follow the weather and my runny nose, next stop a pharmacist.

Guess what, I bought tissues in Carrion but forget to go to a pharmacist. So tomorrow we lose the red eyes. I've been great with dealing with the symptoms, not! Yes, I need an antihistamine and I'm running low on tissues. When I'm in the 4-bed dorm with my eye patches on it abates, but I'm on Camino and want to enjoy the wine, a contradiction at the moment.

Terradillos los templarios is a great newish albergue on the edge of town where I stayed in 2011 with Harry and subsequently with that American madman who made the Camino in 2013 when I kicked the football. It's a Puebla not a town so the other Albergue offers an old style contrast but is probably best used as an alternative stroll to loosen the legs after siesta. It looked fairly full when I went down for a beer.

I went back up via the church to light candles for Pearl. I time caminos well and there are certainly many candles to light and stones to place.

I got back and chatted to a German guy I'd met and another guy who I presumed was one of my room mates as he was the only one drinking when I arrived. Not many beat me to the bar! My eyes were streaming and alcohol wasn't helping so I tried a lie down again after getting the washing in.

Early to bed I guess.

Early to bed indeed but no worm did I catch. The bastard in the bed opposite decided that there was to be no snoring in the dorm as he woke me just after 10pm. He came stumbling into the room to sleep with the associated noise. Somehow I did get off to sleep for 3mins. I know how this plays out and having seen his gear in the room before me I guessed he was the guy on the pints at 1pm.

Not like me to condemn a fellow drunk but I chastised him in the morning and explained he'd snored all night and I'd make sure I wasn't in his dorm again. Buen Camino!

So we stopped twice at cafes and had ham and eggs in one for breakfast and tea in the next. I got into my room at 11:50 and was delighted. I got antihistamine and stopped greeting. Sahagun has a couple of locals and I love looking at a timetable, so the railway station appeals. I must find out more about my love of timetables as I've found I get more excited about them the older I get. Did you know there's a fast train from Leon to ponferrade.....at.... ok I get it!

There's a parade and a pilgrims mass and all I want to talk about is timetables. I knew I was autistic, I knew I was left handed, but I've never felt more alone trying to find someone who loves timetables and wants to met the world in the middle by moving the right handed stick flush to a button in the middle!

The parade at 9pm tonight is one of the highlights of the year .

I've got out of my bed and put on the warm gear. Water proof trousers jacket and hat.

A good billy Connolly guess. The weather is foul and all the kids with big candles will be gutted wind and rain thwarts their endeavour. What will be good to see is it continue. You learn loads in adversity and wet wicks with windy lighters, well what worse conditions exist?

My plan is to walk tomorrow with an eye on the train. I'll get to el burgo and then religious. Then I'll stay at the Albergue and get a 9am bus to Leon and have lunch. I'll check the posada but am duty bound to go to ponferrade or bierzo for Friday night. Saturday I get to los herrias Sunday ocebriero. I would like to get to Sarria Monday and then eirexe Tuesday before a long stroll home Wednesday.... we shall see!


When you walk you chuckle at speed reducing techniques. We walk fairly slowly so the missing tile usually slows us up but the ridge let's us flex our calves! Notso fatso has observed that car manufacturers have realised that speed reducing devices need overcome - oops first public policy mistake!

If we introduce speed bumps don't force us to make them grand national fences !! The car industry understands its user - it pays Facebook and google....so it build off road vehicles to drive in the town. Speed bumps? What speed bumps?


Today's thoughts drifted to the recipe for a good Camino. Start with the rucsac and it's 100g of socks, pants and jersey- 300g of shirts and shorts with the same for long trousers and waterproof - multiply it up if you want an extra day before you have to do a washing and if you're washing daily drill down accordingly.

Next up is medicine, cream and toothpaste etc. Keep it to 500g and don't take a full toothpaste. I know it's only 75g but save 50g for something else like a bite cream, ideally with 1/3 left. Sun cream, foot cream, lip balm and of course the chaffing. Some pilgrims I've met had a heavier cream bag than my whole rucsac. These "travel" packs with only 50g mean you always take more than you need. As anal as Fat Al is, my best and most organised cream Camino was with 6 poly bags. One with foot, sun, after sun, antihistamine, tooth etc. These weighed less than 100g and they just needed to be labelled. Colour coded bags meant I was 500g lighter across the Pyrenees. When you walk between hunto and Orisson you appreciate every pound and trust me if your 11lbs or 5kg lighter you'll not thank me, you'll thank yourself. When you see fisherman's skins left at Hunto you know what it's about. When you see them left at Roncesvalles you just think, "ouch too late".

That was a long day to Religious and even further to Mansilla des las Mulas. I sang to myself while the rain poured down. Jesus said I'm getting hammered so I'm going to stop turning this water in wine, but the apostles argued au contraire Lord you are Devine your skills in this area are so tough to grasp it were as well that we drink from vats we can grasp ...

We arrived, me and my song in Mansilla and I immediately forgot most of it once I was checked in at the third attempt. Mary and Joe had less hassle. Everywhere was sold out except my place which is superb. Hot water and heating, muy caliente!

There's so many "posts hit" on the Camino that it pays to let St Jacques decide. Whilst we might curse the hand of fate it is the outcome that does await, so just go with it. Last night I was drookit as I headed from Albergue to pension and finally hostal. The night concluded with a beautiful sleep and in a warm room where I had the luxury of opening the window.

This morning as I boarded the bus to Leon I had my plan to get the 10:15 bus only to see one at 9 that took 10 minutes longer. Now I sit heading for ponferrade and ready to walk to bierzo at 11am.

Tomorrow I'll have Saturday night in los herrerios and on Sunday climb o'Cebreiro before hopefully making it down to triacastela and with luck fitness and timing Sarria. On Monday morning I can make the decision to bus/taxi to Sarria if I don't make it and then train back to Leon/Burgos/Bilbao - the 9:58 and the 12:08 from monforte de lemos get to Leon in 2 hours and it was a scenic trip. If I get the 9:09 from Sarria it should connect so that could be as late as Tuesday. The 11:28 looks like it connects too but what do I know! I always thought Sarria was a wee line between Montfort and lugo or berrerrias.

The lure of the timetable proved too much so I walked to the railway station after I realised I'd been sitting on the 9am Leon to Villafranca del bierzo bus! Ha ha. I looked at next departures and just looked for ponferrada - Villafranca was the one after. I'm glad I had my focus, not distracted by anything else on the screen for a change.

So I'm going to wander in the town and try to get 10,000 steps in before the 3:10pm bus to bierzo. I'll pick up water and if a lavanderia pops up I'll get that too. Then again drink might play a part.

Mental note to self - try not to get stranded in Galicia looking at timetables and receipts. Leon by Tuesday is a good plan!

1.70, 9.60 and €1.65 for my buses shows how cheap travel can be. If I did want a rest period, going across the meseta 5k at a time or from here to O'Cebreiro would be right up there. I could go to cacabelos for example and break the journey to bierzo or as Simon and I did in 2007 walk on to trabedejo. Sunday then for O'CEBREIRO and Monday look to travel from Sarria train station, ideally after a physio if I do the 65-70km in one day. I think I'll try and buy Sarria to Leon from renfe just to waste more time, oh and go to the park by the river.

PONFERRADA

Great bench, shame about the lamppost. My eyes were distracted by the families milling about and dogs off the leash who seemed friendly. Two wee boys, about 4 Years old I reckon, were playing. One was picking up stones, a great Camino pastime while the other was using a stick to gouge dirt out of the ground then wipe it on his brothers coat and trousers, while he continued picking up stones. Once he'd covered his arse enough he mocked him and in fluent Spanish said, ha ha you've shit yourself! How I laughed when the mother said grow up!

How soon they grow, don't worry hen!

The hill that the wee ponferrada castle stands on is a lot more impressive when walking up the bridge to it. I stopped and took photos of the natural defences of river and hill. It would certainly put me off attacking even before the arrows and hot olive oil was raining on me. More importantly I got a breather walking up. Good Friday crowds always slow progress another thing we like on gradients like these.

After walking through the church and to quote Ray Davies lighting some "electric candlelight" I moved across the plaza mayor to one of my favourite bars, le Desileria. What's not to like about red wine and free pinchos. This was queso with anchovie. I'm already salivating over my next choice. The wine is Mencia and although it's now available in Scotland the best stuff is around Bierzo.

I jumped the bus ready for it to be late but it was there. Strangely labelled with love, or Leon to Villafranca, it was just a local bus. When the Leon bus rolled in, they transferred the folk and off we sped. Nae toilet so I called that wrong.

We move on.

I brought a bottle back from town and had a great chat with a guy from Peru Denmark and a couple from Israel. Whenever we get close to the holy land my jebus jokes just get jettisoned.

I've met so many humbling human beings across the Camino I realise there is hope. Equally there is reality !

Like cheese grater on combine harvester- ooh - that's snoring!

My Brazilian pal who I never saw again...

Were we right or wrong?

I'm starting to feel like I lost my censor or is that senses? It could be the Mencia, or as they say I Villafranca del Bierzo- who gives a flying fuck.

I think when I start trying to be funny by pushing boundaries the karma just bites beautifully back.

I woke this morning thinking I'd done well to sleep on a bed in the hall to give some of my new pilgrim pals a good and quiet night. How wrong I was, the 7 remainers claimed a few snorers amongst them as well as the early morning remoaners!

I clearly need to be less vocal about religious things on a pilgrimage. Just because my religious habits are good food and wine. I was a tad hungover or shall we just say, still pissed, as I stumbled out the Albergue at 7:28am. My earliest start and I made good ground to trabadelo before 10. I wandered around to the restaurant Simon and I dined in 2007 just before the sun stroke took him. I ordered eggs and toast to go with my tea. I ate it like I'd never seen food before. I wasn't too aware until I washed my hands after. I know it's not a spectator sport but I'm so glad I eat facing the wall on Camino!

As I got up to go I decided my legs hadn't quite felt the benefit so I got a tin of juice. As I drunk it I felt quite a weight of exhaustion and so took off very slowly and that pace would continue. I stopped for a bottle of water which was lucky as I nearly left without any, a sure sign I was Donald ducked. Talking of the Donald I was enjoying making videos of my song about him being an oversized tangoed scrotum. The chorus being something about a large orange bawbag.

The next thing I know I stagger towards la portela and the wee ermita where I get to light real candles. As it's Easter it's been taken over by the young Catholic society. Oops, the karma of last night's ranting is taking its toll. They ask me questions and I just want to light my candles and move on. I give them my name and they offer to say prayers for me. Oh no, this karma is so quite in spinning back to me. I want to escape but they try and give me a wee cross for free. I like gifts but please, leave me be, don't market all these freebies. I feel like it's a corporate giveaway. I want to talk about the horrors committed in the name of religion and that I just like this wee place as it has candles. It sounds so wrong but it's the only part of religious experience that through metamorphosis is part of my life. I like a candle as a symbol of a memory and I know it burns out, but like a dead cat bounce, it's a last hurrah!

So I walk on get to Ambasmestas, 10 minutes later and suddenly realise I'm wiped out. A coffee is followed by the question, do you have rooms? 30€ later I'm in my shower, the best I've ever had. The power is like an aqua massage - it's so powerful it's almost sore. St Jacques just continues to provide. My ears were open and as I lay down I realise I had no food yesterday to talk of as I wasn't walking. I had loads of Mencia, a few pinchos and a plate of pimientos padrons.

In short not the sustenance required. I should've realised when I was walking I never even needed the toilet. All these things come to you once someone like St Jacques turns the light bulb on. Oh how we laughed when I woke up came down and ate a menu del dia. I returned to bed for another hour. When I finally went for a stroll the heat had dropped to 20 degrees. Up until now we've been well wrapped up on a daily basis but the heat dial has just been turned up. Tomorrow is OCEBREIRO so I've got 6k on the gentle rising ground before a three hour climb. I'll make sure I put some sun screen on, another of today's idiocies.



Sent from my iPhone

Ponferrada

What's not to like about a journey and the Camino teaches you everything you ever wanted to know.

We got to the airport and we got on a plane

We got to the airport early had 3 pints and got on the plane

We got on the plane and had a glass of wine

We got off the plane and had a few more glasses of wine

We tried to check into our accommodation but unfortunately it was closed

We got off the plane we got off the bus and we went to the pub and drank wine. I always say St Jacques provides, not always what you were looking for but the invisible hand of fate is funny.

We went to 5 pubs and then found the nightclub and drank wine before rushing for a taxi in the rain to get the 3:45 bus to San Sebastián.

This cost €16 which was a lot less than the accommodation so we had breakfast and spent eight euros on croissant and coffee while we watched the waves splash and crash and bash against the shore

Then we got the bus to Pamplona and we saw lots of snow on the mountains.

We arrived in Pamplona and then went for a coffee and then started to walk the rest is history

We made it all the way over the hill to Muruzábal bar where we had an enjoyable chase around the village to find the owner of the casa where we stayed. Tomorrow we hope to get to Lorca. Casa was €70 and we had a room each. Dinner was tapas and wine €23. What a joy


Lunch late Friday Lorca- we found our twin room with shared bathroom was 40€ and our lunch was 15. I love the place but we walked on having said hi again to our man at the bar who waved us on with a gift of two bottles of water. He wanted to give us beer but we were happy for the clear stuff. We got to villatuerta and went to alberguelamagica.com where I had stayed before. Sadly they were closed so we had another beer then walked back across the bridge and a nearby casa muskildialabdextea but it was rented for the week so we took advice at the new Buen Camino bar and hit the hourly bus at 18:55. The bus leaves from the Lorca side of the river and heads that way too before doubling back at the main road. Oh how we laughed as we thought we may indeed stay in Lorca, St Jacques after all does provide.

We finally arrived in Estella after 12 swaying minutes, as the driver headed home for tea. We jumped off and hit hostel Cristina where Harry once changed the light bulbs for the wee old lady who ran the place. At 45€ for a double it seems the prices haven't moved on so I'd reckon I should revise my 'don't stay here' to please do! We saw another Hostal which looked superb. It's parallel with the posh hotel other side of the church. Anyone doing the cash check will see how much we've spent and this year it's not bad. The accommodation experience is to try to average 25-30 now. It used to be 500€ for 25-30 days but now I'd recommend €750-800. If you like a bit more luxury lump on but as with birdies at golf - if you rough it for a night it takes a few double bogeys off the card later on when you spend €60 a night.

Back to the cash for Friday - puente la Reina - jakue bacon rolls and tea €6:40, cafe & cake by bank €5.40 albergue Lorca €15 tea juice and soup. Evening in the bar's was brilliant. My favourite being the winner of our 2011 food on the Camino awards. Over the pointy bridge we arrive at 20:04 and the platters of tapas and ponchos arrived immediately. Pincho and vino €2.50 - €12 later (extras a must!) we went to the rock n roll bar (5) then we went to another classic (4) then on to a place where they gave us free chips so we had two (8) then a single on the way back (3) - €32 for a few glasses of wine and a great Estella pub crawl. Home at 12:30 meant a long lie! So cash in kitty less today's spend of €116 including bus fares.

Saturday Monjardin and the laziest walk ever of 10km in 3 hours. Brekky for 9€ in Pan on way out, then some pilgrim wine, lentils and chorizo at azcueta with tea 15€ set us up for the new albergue which was 30€ for us. Cash is lasting well and the gap from private facilities and albergue is narrowing. 6€ for a lavadora and dryer a joy and the place is so clean and modern, we did the rustic charm of the old albergue 8 years ago.

Did I mention it's a wee bit more commercialised? Well it is and so I mention cash as it's the question most often asked instead of snoring which I consider essential.

Numbers are easier to describe than zzzz's or zxzxzxXz's as snoring interruptions are described.

Sunday is Torres del Rio or sansol- where a new albergue was built recently. We will walk, talk and go for old or new. Now we've had our washing done we might do old, ha ha!

We went for new and it's a spacious new albergue with 10 bunk beds or 20 smelly pilgrims. Tonight my guess is 14 smelly pilgrims. We've taken a trip over to Torres del Rio and started furthest away from sansol and will have a few snifters on the way back. At 3.50 for wine and olives you can tell we will have a doddery walk back. Tonight the albergue is 10€ and 12 for our meal. Having spent very little 6€ on banana & tea, juice and cake at the halfway house and then €8 in los Arcos it's a cheap day. We put 50 each into today's kitty and it's still pretty full.

Dinner for 12€ should sort that out. Only a cup of wine and Stu went for the 3€ supplement of steak while I chose cod. Brilliant food and the wine must've been ok as we had 4-5 refills. Bar closed on us about 9:45 so it'll be brekky at 7:45.

Monday is logrono and being last out the albergue has its uses. There's a bit of rain and so we walk in the low cloud but luckily most of it has been through the night. The early risers may have dashed off into the dark with their head torches and torch screen wipers but I like our leisurely approach.

The walk to Torres del Rio last night was a great refresher for the terrain, so we knew what we were up against

We took a leisurely approach after breakfast which was just as well

We left home at 8:30 to descend then ascend into Torres del Rio

This is the story of the short walk to Viana. Up-and-down up-and-down then do you hours 30 minutes later you arrive, Have tortilla and reflect on some fantastic vistas. A great walk, if a bit of a lung buster, unlike the €5.80 bill for teas and tortillas, in El Bordon of Viana, reassuringly reasonable with a great spacious wc to change the wet clothes!

The next two hours twenty takes you gently into Logroño.

We stay at hostal redonda but can recommend albergue entresuenois. Our hostal is opposite the church and handy for st Juan and Calle Laurel. We turned left and went to Calle Laurel. The tapas bars are still superb although the prices have changed. Nowadays 2 tapas and 2 wines will rock in at 10€. Paganos skewers were reassuringly still a bargain and we had a great plate of pimiento padrons at the bottom of Calle Laurel.

An early night saw us in bed before 12 and 3€ breakfast at cafe moka at 9am. We must be getting older to get up this early! Great orange juice, coffee and pastry. What's not to like.

Another stop at 10:30 in the middle of the carefully tended gardens and lake on the west side of Logroño sees us with tea and a shared bocadillo and change from €5. We should get to navarette by 1pm ventosa by 3:30 and Najera by 6. Whether we get to Azofra by 8pm will be decided by legs!

Having sat down at 12:20 for a snack in Navarette we felt quite emboldened. Another tea with sugar, a bit of bread, tortilla and we should get on our merry way by 1pm no problem. It's only 12-13km so we should've done it in under 4 hours with breaks but often one hill lasting 2km can ruin it as we found yesterday.

The long joked about 4.3km to ventosa takes 90minutes excluding half time so we will see today if we can have a menu del dia and get out by 3:30pm.

Arriving at 2.10 we took a long lunch before leaving at 3pm. The skies were darkening but we'd had pasta and an ice cream so felt wings in our shoes. We danced down the hill from Ventosa, passed the bodegas and head out towards the woods. The walk takes you through vineyards and gives fantastic views of the region. As we approached the uphill section through rocks small and large we felt a cyclist approach but having stepped aside we watched him dismount and take an eternity so battered on to the top. As we made our way down again we felt the silent assassin's breath and stepped aside as he bounced down the trail. The skies darkened all around and we quickly got the jackets out. It's hoses down and there was no shelter for 2km. Eventually a tree offered some pilgrim retreat and we gathered to exchange stories. As the weather improved we moved on. 2km later the heavens opened again and St Jacques greeted all over us. I took sanctuary in the stone shelter while Stu dadded on.

We met up at Franco II and after a couple of coffees set off again to see if we could do the full 40km.

After 50,000+ steps we arrived 19:30.

11€ meals followed and so did a lock on our twin room

So bizarre

We sleep on living room floor as st Jacques provides- ha ha

We were last into the albergue and got unpacked showered and off to the pub. By 8pm we were pint in hand, ordering our meal and by 9:30 stumbling back with a bottle of tinto in our hands. We stood chatting with an English couple who were in the hotel. Wine drinkers they were and buying it by the case! We said goodbye goodnight as we had a curfew.

We entered to find our washing fresh out the dryer and to our delight we folded it all neatly and opened the wine.

As we went up to the room we discovered the padlock. Never a good sign but I guess it was for the unused rooms, oh, and our room, with our bags on the bed and tooth brush, oh shit.

Back downstairs to sleep in the living room then, ouch!

My favourite albergue has many a delight in store and st Jacques always provides.

I like a big day and this could be it. Stu and I rolled into azofra at 7:30pm one year and we got placed in the annex this year we went one better as we tried to rival Harry's cuatro puntos of 2011.

Wednesday Santo Domingo was a real struggle as my foot played badly. We got the bus to Villafranca Montes de Oca and took the hotel option. Hopefully the foot works tomorrow.

Thankful for small mercies I was when I strolled through for a bath at 7:50. The foot was working and after the bath felt great. Breakfast was a pot pourri of coffee toast orange juice scrambled omelette and cold sausages. I had corn flakes as well. By 10am we left and joked over to st Juan for 1pm. A selfie then off to Ages and then atapuerca. Climb the hill and lay a stone for loved ones before descending to villaval and Cardeñuela Rio pico.

A superb catch up with new pals around dinner as well as old friends in the hopitalero and her son,

We stopped at cardenuela Rio pico to have an easy stroll Friday to Burgos - meet up with Andy and Keith then on to rabe for 2pm poss Bus at 1pm? Walk to Hornillos del Camino .

Like all plans revisions are made. The hangover was everything. The first question was how we got to bed but the second was even more telling. How do you get up? The head wasn't too good and the limbs weren't either. Finally a struggle to stagger to the shower was rewarded with some cold water a shriek and some order being restored. We had a big room and the carnage on the floor ensured we took full advantage.

I strolled out to my favourite Albergue in Orbaneja but sadly it's closed. My belly probably was grateful to avoid breakfast, breathing was tough enough. I waited 5 minutes puffing on a bench but Stu was a bit further back so I hauled my sorry self on down the trail.

We took the river route so turned left at the airport and showed a few lost people where the river was before heading to a cafe for some food and ablutions. The referral route is not that easy to find. After you come out of the airport you are mate but I am in the road in and you have to cross it go sleep then left then straight for 200 m, then turn right at the allotments. Then you cross the river and a field by the motorway and then go with the river under the motorway before finally being alone in a country park all the way into central Burgos. This route does finally swing back to join the Camino before you hit the bus station but if you did want to check bus times its quite handy!

We checked into the Albergue to do our washing and give the guests an albergue experience but ours put us off and so we checked out and into the new apartments. Just as well, Keith and Andy has been up at 5am and after a stroll around Bilbao and the 3pm bus they were ready for comfort and not a clarty noisy albergue. Shame really but sometimes you have to roll with the blows and the luxury was superb. Sadly getting into our rooms with the new keyless technology was less fun. We went back to hotel via gotica and they gave us the master key. Like toilets on trains there's a bit of over engineering going on. While the Americans famously devised a pen that could work in zero gravity for the space programme the Russians used a pencil. Locks are quite simple mechanisms especially toilets, but obviously digital displays are deemed to enhance the customer experience, except the blind who have their own lock under the handle in their toilets, not! Yes the blind get to hit door open, door lock, door still widen open. But I digress. We changed and hit the town, with the guys seeing some of my favourite tapas bars. Early to bed as the walking plans evolved. Not quite as early for Andy and Keith as the room lock and key necessitated another intervention from the hotel staff.

Had we done the walk from Rabe to Hornillos Saturday was hornillos to Castrojeriz for lunch then to itero for 4:30. As it was we took a taxi to Rabe for breakfast. The owner watched us get out of the cab and proceeded to give us a feast of leftovers for 28€. This is more like it! We left at 9am and reached Hornillos at 10:30, left at 10:55and arrived hontanas at 1:30. A lovely Irish lassie has taken over the hostal on the left by the church. Sadly her soup wasn't ready so we went to the old favourite from 2007 and had a menu del dia with wine. 44€ later we stomped on out to Castrojeriz at 2:40. The sun was hot and itero felt a pipe dream. We stopped for a juice at San anton and then did the last 3km to arrive 5:30. After a beer we checked into the hostal iacobus and beer tapas vino and sleep followed. The boys found a new bar for me which looked terrible but was superb - the owner a great host and the music to match.

Sunday itero to Fromista train 11:00 to Santander became a taxi from Castrojeriz. That's the Camino make a plan to break it. We had a great day and evening.

The taxi got us to town in good time and we were able to walk a bit of the canal, before putting the boys on their train. Stu and I then checked into the hostal / hotel and dumped the bags and walked back to boadilla. I took my pack to carry a few things including my wet socks hoping they would dry. It was a good stroll along the canal. We were going to try the canal boat but were delighted we didn't when we beat it comfortably over the 3km stretch. The final 2km took us to the stork rich church and en el Camino where we had a few beers and chilled, but not before we shouted after a woman heading the wrong way. Ear plugs clearly in, their friend chased after with her rucsac bouncing. I changed my chant to drop the rucsac but to no avail, how we laughed as we finished our beers. On the way out we met the couple from Stranraer, before heading to the albergue at the end of town. A quick drink, chat about the masters betting and we were off once more, back along the canal. No meandering off piste, although we were tempted to track down the missing pilgrims.

Back at the hotel we convinced the owner that Molinari was a great golfer and along with woods worth the watch on the masters. He put the big screen on and we were happy wee boys. With our bills for plates of cheese and ham along with beer and wine coming in about 70€ he knew he'd made the right decision!

Tiger won we got pissed and I was gutted for Molinari.

The next morning we took our time as Stu's train was 12 and I was only doing a short day, shorter as it turned out. Hay fever, some allergy, who knows what but my nose was dripping and wen the air got clammy, Villalcázar suddenly appealed.

I couldn't have been happier when the heavens opened as I lay in a bath - facilities I shared with my 25€ not en-suite room! I shared them with nobody until 6pm by which time I was warming to the menu del dia. A meal and a few drinks later it was 9pm and time to sneeze in my room.

I think an antihistamine would be a good idea, shame I didn't bring one!

Who knew the fast bus from Bilbao to Burgos also carries on to Carrion de los condes, And Leon! It's mobbed but I'm off a terradillos.

Not before we go to Saldana in an equilateral triangular route. Saldana has a wee refugee village or 150 caravans on the edge of town. In the centre there's a lovely park, river and large bus station, like Laredo.

The bus was not obligatory but I really felt it was the right idea. The other was to stay in Carrion. Both are probably ok as ideas but I'll follow the weather and my runny nose, next stop a pharmacist.

Guess what, I bought tissues in Carrion but forget to go to a pharmacist. So tomorrow we lose the red eyes. I've been great with dealing with the symptoms, not! Yes, I need an antihistamine and I'm running low on tissues. When I'm in the 4-bed dorm with my eye patches on it abates, but I'm on Camino and want to enjoy the wine, a contradiction at the moment.

Terradillos los templarios is a great newish albergue on the edge of town where I stayed in 2011 with Harry and subsequently with that American madman who made the Camino in 2013 when I kicked the football. It's a Puebla not a town so the other Albergue offers an old style contrast but is probably best used as an alternative stroll to loosen the legs after siesta. It looked fairly full when I went down for a beer.

I went back up via the church to light candles for Pearl. I time caminos well and there are certainly many candles to light and stones to place.

I got back and chatted to a German guy I'd met and another guy who I presumed was one of my room mates as he was the only one drinking when I arrived. Not many beat me to the bar! My eyes were streaming and alcohol wasn't helping so I tried a lie down again after getting the washing in.

Early to bed I guess.

Early to bed indeed but no worm did I catch. The bastard in the bed opposite decided that there was to be no snoring in the dorm as he woke me just after 10pm. He came stumbling into the room to sleep with the associated noise. Somehow I did get off to sleep for 3mins. I know how this plays out and having seen his gear in the room before me I guessed he was the guy on the pints at 1pm.

Not like me to condemn a fellow drunk but I chastised him in the morning and explained he'd snored all night and I'd make sure I wasn't in his dorm again. Buen Camino!

So we stopped twice at cafes and had ham and eggs in one for breakfast and tea in the next. I got into my room at 11:50 and was delighted. I got antihistamine and stopped greeting. Sahagun has a couple of locals and I love looking at a timetable, so the railway station appeals. I must find out more about my love of timetables as I've found I get more excited about them the older I get. Did you know there's a fast train from Leon to ponferrade.....at.... ok I get it!

There's a parade and a pilgrims mass and all I want to talk about is timetables. I knew I was autistic, I knew I was left handed, but I've never felt more alone trying to find someone who loves timetables and wants to met the world in the middle by moving the right handed stick flush to a button in the middle!

The parade at 9pm tonight is one of the highlights of the year .

I've got out of my bed and put on the warm gear. Water proof trousers jacket and hat.

A good billy Connolly guess. The weather is foul and all the kids with big candles will be gutted wind and rain thwarts their endeavour. What will be good to see is it continue. You learn loads in adversity and wet wicks with windy lighters, well what worse conditions exist?

My plan is to walk tomorrow with an eye on the train. I'll get to el burgo and then religious. Then I'll stay at the Albergue and get a 9am bus to Leon and have lunch. I'll check the posada but am duty bound to go to ponferrade or bierzo for Friday night. Saturday I get to los herrias Sunday ocebriero. I would like to get to Sarria Monday and then eirexe Tuesday before a long stroll home Wednesday.... we shall see!


When you walk you chuckle at speed reducing techniques. We walk fairly slowly so the missing tile usually slows us up but the ridge let's us flex our calves! Notso fatso has observed that car manufacturers have realised that speed reducing devices need overcome - oops first public policy mistake!

If we introduce speed bumps don't force us to make them grand national fences !! The car industry understands its user - it pays Facebook and google....so it build off road vehicles to drive in the town. Speed bumps? What speed bumps?


Today's thoughts drifted to the recipe for a good Camino. Start with the rucsac and it's 100g of socks, pants and jersey- 300g of shirts and shorts with the same for long trousers and waterproof - multiply it up if you want an extra day before you have to do a washing and if you're washing daily drill down accordingly.

Next up is medicine, cream and toothpaste etc. Keep it to 500g and don't take a full toothpaste. I know it's only 75g but save 50g for something else like a bite cream, ideally with 1/3 left. Sun cream, foot cream, lip balm and of course the chaffing. Some pilgrims I've met had a heavier cream bag than my whole rucsac. These "travel" packs with only 50g mean you always take more than you need. As anal as Fat Al is, my best and most organised cream Camino was with 6 poly bags. One with foot, sun, after sun, antihistamine, tooth etc. These weighed less than 100g and they just needed to be labelled. Colour coded bags meant I was 500g lighter across the Pyrenees. When you walk between hunto and Orisson you appreciate every pound and trust me if your 11lbs or 5kg lighter you'll not thank me, you'll thank yourself. When you see fisherman's skins left at Hunto you know what it's about. When you see them left at Roncesvalles you just think, "ouch too late".

That was a long day to Religious and even further to Mansilla des las Mulas. I sang to myself while the rain poured down. Jesus said I'm getting hammered so I'm going to stop turning this water in wine, but the apostles argued au contraire Lord you are Devine your skills in this area are so tough to grasp it were as well that we drink from vats we can grasp ...

We arrived, me and my song in Mansilla and I immediately forgot most of it once I was checked in at the third attempt. Mary and Joe had less hassle. Everywhere was sold out except my place which is superb. Hot water and heating, muy caliente!

There's so many "posts hit" on the Camino that it pays to let St Jacques decide. Whilst we might curse the hand of fate it is the outcome that does await, so just go with it. Last night I was drookit as I headed from Albergue to pension and finally hostal. The night concluded with a beautiful sleep and in a warm room where I had the luxury of opening the window.

This morning as I boarded the bus to Leon I had my plan to get the 10:15 bus only to see one at 9 that took 10 minutes longer. Now I sit heading for ponferrade and ready to walk to bierzo at 11am.

Tomorrow I'll have Saturday night in los herrerios and on Sunday climb o'Cebreiro before hopefully making it down to triacastela and with luck fitness and timing Sarria. On Monday morning I can make the decision to bus/taxi to Sarria if I don't make it and then train back to Leon/Burgos/Bilbao - the 9:58 and the 12:08 from monforte de lemos get to Leon in 2 hours and it was a scenic trip. If I get the 9:09 from Sarria it should connect so that could be as late as Tuesday. The 11:28 looks like it connects too but what do I know! I always thought Sarria was a wee line between Montfort and lugo or berrerrias.

The lure of the timetable proved too much so I walked to the railway station after I realised I'd been sitting on the 9am Leon to Villafranca del bierzo bus! Ha ha. I looked at next departures and just looked for ponferrada - Villafranca was the one after. I'm glad I had my focus, not distracted by anything else on the screen for a change.

So I'm going to wander in the town and try to get 10,000 steps in before the 3:10pm bus to bierzo. I'll pick up water and if a lavanderia pops up I'll get that too. Then again drink might play a part.

Mental note to self - try not to get stranded in Galicia looking at timetables and receipts. Leon by Tuesday is a good plan!

1.70, 9.60 and €1.65 for my buses shows how cheap travel can be. If I did want a rest period, going across the meseta 5k at a time or from here to O'Cebreiro would be right up there. I could go to cacabelos for example and break the journey to bierzo or as Simon and I did in 2007 walk on to trabedejo. Sunday then for O'CEBREIRO and Monday look to travel from Sarria train station, ideally after a physio if I do the 65-70km in one day. I think I'll try and buy Sarria to Leon from renfe just to waste more time, oh and go to the park by the river.

PONFERRADA

Great bench, shame about the lamppost. My eyes were distracted by the families milling about and dogs off the leash who seemed friendly. Two wee boys, about 4 Years old I reckon, were playing. One was picking up stones, a great Camino pastime while the other was using a stick to gouge dirt out of the ground then wipe it on his brothers coat and trousers, while he continued picking up stones. Once he'd covered his arse enough he mocked him and in fluent Spanish said, ha ha you've shit yourself! How I laughed when the mother said grow up!

How soon they grow, don't worry hen!

The hill that the wee ponferrada castle stands on is a lot more impressive when walking up the bridge to it. I stopped and took photos of the natural defences of river and hill. It would certainly put me off attacking even before the arrows and hot olive oil was raining on me. More importantly I got a breather walking up. Good Friday crowds always slow progress another thing we like on gradients like these.

After walking through the church and to quote Ray Davies lighting some "electric candlelight" I moved across the plaza mayor to one of my favourite bars, le Desileria. What's not to like about red wine and free pinchos. This was queso with anchovie. I'm already salivating over my next choice. The wine is Mencia and although it's now available in Scotland the best stuff is around Bierzo.

I jumped the bus ready for it to be late but it was there. Strangely labelled with love, or Leon to Villafranca, it was just a local bus. When the Leon bus rolled in, they transferred the folk and off we sped. Nae toilet so I called that wrong.


Ok - stoap!

I made a mistake - stoap letting me know - I'll cut and past when I hit a computer- family bits have been fucked up into autistic bit and the conclusion is they're all shit.

We move on.

I brought a bottle back from town and had a great chat with a guy from Peru Denmark and a couple from Israel. Whenever we get close to the holy land my jebus jokes just get jettisoned. I don't know why, some are so good like the good Friday one about, how slow is this queue, ah the guy keeps dropping the cross. I'd say the Jew keeps dropping the cross but apparently more controversial than the Christian fucker keeps dropping the cross.

Im walking 500 miles and this guy does 2km max to his place of execution. I don't believe my comparison is valid or anything else but I do feel jebus had a lot more coverage. Check with the marketing department- what sells? Not a Christian but I hear the calls of all the religious and don't always agree. Religious fuckers are at their best when they work the fields their flocks are in and not when they work the air waves.

I've met so many humbling human beings across the Camino I realise there is hope. Equally there is reality !

Like cheese grater on combine harvester- ooh - that's snoring!

My Brazilian pal who I never saw again...

Were we right or wrong?

I'm starting to feel like I lost my censor xo tell - or as they say I Villafranca del Bierzo- who gives a fuck!


Sent from my iPhone

Ponferrada go to the punchline

What's not to like about a journey and the Camino teaches you everything you ever wanted to know.

We got to the airport and we got on a plane

We got to the airport early had 3 pints and got on the plane

We got on the plane and had a glass of wine

We got off the plane and had a few more glasses of wine

We tried to check into our accommodation but unfortunately it was closed

We got off the plane we got off the bus and we went to the pub and drank wine. I always say St Jacques provides, not always what you were looking for but the invisible hand of fate is funny.

We went to 5 pubs and then found the nightclub and drank wine before rushing for a taxi in the rain to get the 3:45 bus to San Sebastián.

This cost €16 which was a lot less than the accommodation so we had breakfast and spent eight euros on croissant and coffee while we watched the waves splash and crash and bash against the shore

Then we got the bus to Pamplona and we saw lots of snow on the mountains.

We arrived in Pamplona and then went for a coffee and then started to walk the rest is history

We made it all the way over the hill to Muruzábal bar where we had an enjoyable chase around the village to find the owner of the casa where we stayed. Tomorrow we hope to get to Lorca. Casa was €70 and we had a room each. Dinner was tapas and wine €23. What a joy


Lunch late Friday Lorca- we found our twin room with shared bathroom was 40€ and our lunch was 15. I love the place but we walked on having said hi again to our man at the bar who waved us on with a gift of two bottles of water. He wanted to give us beer but we were happy for the clear stuff. We got to villatuerta and went to alberguelamagica.com where I had stayed before. Sadly they were closed so we had another beer then walked back across the bridge and a nearby casa muskildialabdextea but it was rented for the week so we took advice at the new Buen Camino bar and hit the hourly bus at 18:55. The bus leaves from the Lorca side of the river and heads that way too before doubling back at the main road. Oh how we laughed as we thought we may indeed stay in Lorca, St Jacques after all does provide.

We finally arrived in Estella after 12 swaying minutes, as the driver headed home for tea. We jumped off and hit hostel Cristina where Harry once changed the light bulbs for the wee old lady who ran the place. At 45€ for a double it seems the prices haven't moved on so I'd reckon I should revise my 'don't stay here' to please do! We saw another Hostal which looked superb. It's parallel with the posh hotel other side of the church. Anyone doing the cash check will see how much we've spent and this year it's not bad. The accommodation experience is to try to average 25-30 now. It used to be 500€ for 25-30 days but now I'd recommend €750-800. If you like a bit more luxury lump on but as with birdies at golf - if you rough it for a night it takes a few double bogeys off the card later on when you spend €60 a night.

Back to the cash for Friday - puente la Reina - jakue bacon rolls and tea €6:40, cafe & cake by bank €5.40 albergue Lorca €15 tea juice and soup. Evening in the bar's was brilliant. My favourite being the winner of our 2011 food on the Camino awards. Over the pointy bridge we arrive at 20:04 and the platters of tapas and ponchos arrived immediately. Pincho and vino €2.50 - €12 later (extras a must!) we went to the rock n roll bar (5) then we went to another classic (4) then on to a place where they gave us free chips so we had two (8) then a single on the way back (3) - €32 for a few glasses of wine and a great Estella pub crawl. Home at 12:30 meant a long lie! So cash in kitty less today's spend of €116 including bus fares.

Saturday Monjardin and the laziest walk ever of 10km in 3 hours. Brekky for 9€ in Pan on way out, then some pilgrim wine, lentils and chorizo at azcueta with tea 15€ set us up for the new albergue which was 30€ for us. Cash is lasting well and the gap from private facilities and albergue is narrowing. 6€ for a lavadora and dryer a joy and the place is so clean and modern, we did the rustic charm of the old albergue 8 years ago.

Did I mention it's a wee bit more commercialised? Well it is and so I mention cash as it's the question most often asked instead of snoring which I consider essential.

Numbers are easier to describe than zzzz's or zxzxzxXz's as snoring interruptions are described.

Sunday is Torres del Rio or sansol- where a new albergue was built recently. We will walk, talk and go for old or new. Now we've had our washing done we might do old, ha ha!

We went for new and it's a spacious new albergue with 10 bunk beds or 20 smelly pilgrims. Tonight my guess is 14 smelly pilgrims. We've taken a trip over to Torres del Rio and started furthest away from sansol and will have a few snifters on the way back. At 3.50 for wine and olives you can tell we will have a doddery walk back. Tonight the albergue is 10€ and 12 for our meal. Having spent very little 6€ on banana & tea, juice and cake at the halfway house and then €8 in los Arcos it's a cheap day. We put 50 each into today's kitty and it's still pretty full.

Dinner for 12€ should sort that out. Only a cup of wine and Stu went for the 3€ supplement of steak while I chose cod. Brilliant food and the wine must've been ok as we had 4-5 refills. Bar closed on us about 9:45 so it'll be brekky at 7:45.

Monday is logrono and being last out the albergue has its uses. There's a bit of rain and so we walk in the low cloud but luckily most of it has been through the night. The early risers may have dashed off into the dark with their head torches and torch screen wipers but I like our leisurely approach.

The walk to Torres del Rio last night was a great refresher for the terrain, so we knew what we were up against

We took a leisurely approach after breakfast which was just as well

We left home at 8:30 to descend then ascend into Torres del Rio

This is the story of the short walk to Viana. Up-and-down up-and-down then do you hours 30 minutes later you arrive, Have tortilla and reflect on some fantastic vistas. A great walk, if a bit of a lung buster, unlike the €5.80 bill for teas and tortillas, in El Bordon of Viana, reassuringly reasonable with a great spacious wc to change the wet clothes!

The next two hours twenty takes you gently into Logroño.

We stay at hostal redonda but can recommend albergue entresuenois. Our hostal is opposite the church and handy for st Juan and Calle Laurel. We turned left and went to Calle Laurel. The tapas bars are still superb although the prices have changed. Nowadays 2 tapas and 2 wines will rock in at 10€. Paganos skewers were reassuringly still a bargain and we had a great plate of pimiento padrons at the bottom of Calle Laurel.

An early night saw us in bed before 12 and 3€ breakfast at cafe moka at 9am. We must be getting older to get up this early! Great orange juice, coffee and pastry. What's not to like.

Another stop at 10:30 in the middle of the carefully tended gardens and lake on the west side of Logroño sees us with tea and a shared bocadillo and change from €5. We should get to navarette by 1pm ventosa by 3:30 and Najera by 6. Whether we get to Azofra by 8pm will be decided by legs!

Having sat down at 12:20 for a snack in Navarette we felt quite emboldened. Another tea with sugar, a bit of bread, tortilla and we should get on our merry way by 1pm no problem. It's only 12-13km so we should've done it in under 4 hours with breaks but often one hill lasting 2km can ruin it as we found yesterday.

The long joked about 4.3km to ventosa takes 90minutes excluding half time so we will see today if we can have a menu del dia and get out by 3:30pm.

Arriving at 2.10 we took a long lunch before leaving at 3pm. The skies were darkening but we'd had pasta and an ice cream so felt wings in our shoes. We danced down the hill from Ventosa, passed the bodegas and head out towards the woods. The walk takes you through vineyards and gives fantastic views of the region. As we approached the uphill section through rocks small and large we felt a cyclist approach but having stepped aside we watched him dismount and take an eternity so battered on to the top. As we made our way down again we felt the silent assassin's breath and stepped aside as he bounced down the trail. The skies darkened all around and we quickly got the jackets out. It's hoses down and there was no shelter for 2km. Eventually a tree offered some pilgrim retreat and we gathered to exchange stories. As the weather improved we moved on. 2km later the heavens opened again and St Jacques greeted all over us. I took sanctuary in the stone shelter while Stu dadded on.

We met up at Franco II and after a couple of coffees set off again to see if we could do the full 40km.

After 50,000+ steps we arrived 19:30.

11€ meals followed and so did a lock on our twin room

So bizarre

We sleep on living room floor as st Jacques provides- ha ha

We were last into the albergue and got unpacked showered and off to the pub. By 8pm we were pint in hand, ordering our meal and by 9:30 stumbling back with a bottle of tinto in our hands. We stood chatting with an English couple who were in the hotel. Wine drinkers they were and buying it by the case! We said goodbye goodnight as we had a curfew.

We entered to find our washing fresh out the dryer and to our delight we folded it all neatly and opened the wine.

As we went up to the room we discovered the padlock. Never a good sign but I guess it was for the unused rooms, oh, and our room, with our bags on the bed and tooth brush, oh shit.

Back downstairs to sleep in the living room then, ouch!

My favourite albergue has many a delight in store and st Jacques always provides.

I like a big day and this could be it. Stu and I rolled into azofra at 7:30pm one year and we got placed in the annex this year we went one better as we tried to rival Harry's cuatro puntos of 2011.

Wednesday Santo Domingo was a real struggle as my foot played badly. We got the bus to Villafranca Montes de Oca and took the hotel option. Hopefully the foot works tomorrow.

Thankful for small mercies I was when I strolled through for a bath at 7:50. The foot was working and after the bath felt great. Breakfast was a pot pourri of coffee toast orange juice scrambled omelette and cold sausages. I had corn flakes as well. By 10am we left and joked over to st Juan for 1pm. A selfie then off to Ages and then atapuerca. Climb the hill and lay a stone for loved ones before descending to villaval and Cardeñuela Rio pico.

A superb catch up with new pals around dinner as well as old friends in the hopitalero and her son,

We stopped at cardenuela Rio pico to have an easy stroll Friday to Burgos - meet up with Andy and Keith then on to rabe for 2pm poss Bus at 1pm? Walk to Hornillos del Camino .

Like all plans revisions are made. The hangover was everything. The first question was how we got to bed but the second was even more telling. How do you get up? The head wasn't too good and the limbs weren't either. Finally a struggle to stagger to the shower was rewarded with some cold water a shriek and some order being restored. We had a big room and the carnage on the floor ensured we took full advantage.

I strolled out to my favourite Albergue in Orbaneja but sadly it's closed. My belly probably was grateful to avoid breakfast, breathing was tough enough. I waited 5 minutes puffing on a bench but Stu was a bit further back so I hauled my sorry self on down the trail.

We took the river route so turned left at the airport and showed a few lost people where the river was before heading to a cafe for some food and ablutions. The referral route is not that easy to find. After you come out of the airport you are mate but I am in the road in and you have to cross it go sleep then left then straight for 200 m, then turn right at the allotments. Then you cross the river and a field by the motorway and then go with the river under the motorway before finally being alone in a country park all the way into central Burgos. This route does finally swing back to join the Camino before you hit the bus station but if you did want to check bus times its quite handy!

We checked into the Albergue to do our washing and give the guests an albergue experience but ours put us off and so we checked out and into the new apartments. Just as well, Keith and Andy has been up at 5am and after a stroll around Bilbao and the 3pm bus they were ready for comfort and not a clarty noisy albergue. Shame really but sometimes you have to roll with the blows and the luxury was superb. Sadly getting into our rooms with the new keyless technology was less fun. We went back to hotel via gotica and they gave us the master key. Like toilets on trains there's a bit of over engineering going on. While the Americans famously devised a pen that could work in zero gravity for the space programme the Russians used a pencil. Locks are quite simple mechanisms especially toilets, but obviously digital displays are deemed to enhance the customer experience, except the blind who have their own lock under the handle in their toilets, not! Yes the blind get to hit door open, door lock, door still widen open. But I digress. We changed and hit the town, with the guys seeing some of my favourite tapas bars. Early to bed as the walking plans evolved. Not quite as early for Andy and Keith as the room lock and key necessitated another intervention from the hotel staff.

Had we done the walk from Rabe to Hornillos Saturday was hornillos to Castrojeriz for lunch then to itero for 4:30. As it was we took a taxi to Rabe for breakfast. The owner watched us get out of the cab and proceeded to give us a feast of leftovers for 28€. This is more like it! We left at 9am and reached Hornillos at 10:30, left at 10:55and arrived hontanas at 1:30. A lovely Irish lassie has taken over the hostal on the left by the church. Sadly her soup wasn't ready so we went to the old favourite from 2007 and had a menu del dia with wine. 44€ later we stomped on out to Castrojeriz at 2:40. The sun was hot and itero felt a pipe dream. We stopped for a juice at San anton and then did the last 3km to arrive 5:30. After a beer we checked into the hostal iacobus and beer tapas vino and sleep followed. The boys found a new bar for me which looked terrible but was superb - the owner a great host and the music to match.

Sunday itero to Fromista train 11:00 to Santander became a taxi from Castrojeriz. That's the Camino make a plan to break it. We had a great day and evening.

The taxi got us to town in good time and we were able to walk a bit of the canal, before putting the boys on their train. Stu and I then checked into the hostal / hotel and dumped the bags and walked back to boadilla. I took my pack to carry a few things including my wet socks hoping they would dry. It was a good stroll along the canal. We were going to try the canal boat but were delighted we didn't when we beat it comfortably over the 3km stretch. The final 2km took us to the stork rich church and en el Camino where we had a few beers and chilled, but not before we shouted after a woman heading the wrong way. Ear plugs clearly in, their friend chased after with her rucsac bouncing. I changed my chant to drop the rucsac but to no avail, how we laughed as we finished our beers. On the way out we met the couple from Stranraer, before heading to the albergue at the end of town. A quick drink, chat about the masters betting and we were off once more, back along the canal. No meandering off piste, although we were tempted to track down the missing pilgrims.

Back at the hotel we convinced the owner that Molinari was a great golfer and along with woods worth the watch on the masters. He put the big screen on and we were happy wee boys. With our bills for plates of cheese and ham along with beer and wine coming in about 70€ he knew he'd made the right decision!

Tiger won we got pissed and I was gutted for Molinari.

The next morning we took our time as Stu's train was 12 and I was only doing a short day, shorter as it turned out. Hay fever, some allergy, who knows what but my nose was dripping and wen the air got clammy, Villalcázar suddenly appealed.

I couldn't have been happier when the heavens opened as I lay in a bath - facilities I shared with my 25€ not en-suite room! I shared them with nobody until 6pm by which time I was warming to the menu del dia. A meal and a few drinks later it was 9pm and time to sneeze in my room.

I think an antihistamine would be a good idea, shame I didn't bring one!

Who knew the fast bus from Bilbao to Burgos also carries on to Carrion de los condes, And Leon! It's mobbed but I'm off a terradillos.

Not before we go to Saldana in an equilateral triangular route. Saldana has a wee refugee village or 150 caravans on the edge of town. In the centre there's a lovely park, river and large bus station, like Laredo.

The bus was not obligatory but I really felt it was the right idea. The other was to stay in Carrion. Both are probably ok as ideas but I'll follow the weather and my runny nose, next stop a pharmacist.

Guess what, I bought tissues in Carrion but forget to go to a pharmacist. So tomorrow we lose the red eyes. I've been great with dealing with the symptoms, not! Yes, I need an antihistamine and I'm running low on tissues. When I'm in the 4-bed dorm with my eye patches on it abates, but I'm on Camino and want to enjoy the wine, a contradiction at the moment.

Terradillos los templarios is a great newish albergue on the edge of town where I stayed in 2011 with Harry and subsequently with that American madman who made the Camino in 2013 when I kicked the football. It's a Puebla not a town so the other Albergue offers an old style contrast but is probably best used as an alternative stroll to loosen the legs after siesta. It looked fairly full when I went down for a beer.

I went back up via the church to light candles for Pearl. I time caminos well and there are certainly many candles to light and stones to place.

I got back and chatted to a German guy I'd met and another guy who I presumed was one of my room mates as he was the only one drinking when I arrived. Not many beat me to the bar! My eyes were streaming and alcohol wasn't helping so I tried a lie down again after getting the washing in.

Early to bed I guess.

Early to bed indeed but no worm did I catch. The bastard in the bed opposite decided that there was to be no snoring in the dorm as he woke me just after 10pm. He came stumbling into the room to sleep with the associated noise. Somehow I did get off to sleep for 3mins. I know how this plays out and having seen his gear in the room before me I guessed he was the guy on the pints at 1pm.

Not like me to condemn a fellow drunk but I chastised him in the morning and explained he'd snored all night and I'd make sure I wasn't in his dorm again. Buen Camino!

So we stopped twice at cafes and had ham and eggs in one for breakfast and tea in the next. I got into my room at 11:50 and was delighted. I got antihistamine and stopped greeting. Sahagun has a couple of locals and I love looking at a timetable, so the railway station appeals. I must find out more about my love of timetables as I've found I get more excited about them the older I get. Did you know there's a fast train from Leon to ponferrade.....at.... ok I get it!

There's a parade and a pilgrims mass and all I want to talk about is timetables. I knew I was autistic, I knew I was left handed, but I've never felt more alone trying to find someone who loves timetables and wants to met the world in the middle by moving the right handed stick flush to a button in the middle!

The parade at 9pm tonight is one of the highlights of the year .

I've got out of my bed and put on the warm gear. Water proof trousers jacket and hat.

A good billy Connolly guess. The weather is foul and all the kids with big candles will be gutted wind and rain thwarts their endeavour. What will be good to see is it continue. You learn loads in adversity and wet wicks with windy lighters, well what worse conditions exist?

My plan is to walk tomorrow with an eye on the train. I'll get to el burgo and then religious. Then I'll stay at the Albergue and get a 9am bus to Leon and have lunch. I'll check the posada but am duty bound to go to ponferrade or bierzo for Friday night. Saturday I get to los herrias Sunday ocebriero. I would like to get to Sarria Monday and then eirexe Tuesday before a long stroll home Wednesday.... we shall see!


When you walk you chuckle at speed reducing techniques. We walk fairly slowly so the missing tile usually slows us up but the ridge let's us flex our calves! Notso fatso has observed that car manufacturers have realised that speed reducing devices need overcome - oops first public policy mistake!

If we introduce speed bumps don't force us to make them grand national fences !! The car industry understands its user - it pays Facebook and google....so it build off road vehicles to drive in the town. Speed bumps? What speed bumps?


Today's thoughts drifted to the recipe for a good Camino. Start with the rucsac and it's 100g of socks, pants and jersey- 300g of shirts and shorts with the same for long trousers and waterproof - multiply it up if you want an extra day before you have to do a washing and if you're washing daily drill down accordingly.

Next up is medicine, cream and toothpaste etc. Keep it to 500g and don't take a full toothpaste. I know it's only 75g but save 50g for something else like a bite cream, ideally with 1/3 left. Sun cream, foot cream, lip balm and of course the chaffing. Some pilgrims I've met had a heavier cream bag than my whole rucsac. These "travel" packs with only 50g mean you always take more than you need. As anal as Fat Al is, my best and most organised cream Camino was with 6 poly bags. One with foot, sun, after sun, antihistamine, tooth etc. These weighed less than 100g and they just needed to be labelled. Colour coded bags meant I was 500g lighter across the Pyrenees. When you walk between hunto and Orisson you appreciate every pound and trust me if your 11lbs or 5kg lighter you'll not thank me, you'll thank yourself. When you see fisherman's skins left at Hunto you know what it's about. When you see them left at Roncesvalles you just think, "ouch too late".

That was a long day to Religious and even further to Mansilla des las Mulas. I sang to myself while the rain poured down. Jesus said I'm getting hammered so I'm going to stop turning this water in wine, but the apostles argued au contraire Lord you are Devine your skills in this area are so tough to grasp it were as well that we drink from vats we can grasp ...

We arrived, me and my song in Mansilla and I immediately forgot most of it once I was checked in at the third attempt. Mary and Joe had less hassle. Everywhere was sold out except my place which is superb. Hot water and heating, muy caliente!

There's so many "posts hit" on the Camino that it pays to let St Jacques decide. Whilst we might curse the hand of fate it is the outcome that does await, so just go with it. Last night I was drookit as I headed from Albergue to pension and finally hostal. The night concluded with a beautiful sleep and in a warm room where I had the luxury of opening the window.

This morning as I boarded the bus to Leon I had my plan to get the 10:15 bus only to see one at 9 that took 10 minutes longer. Now I sit heading for ponferrade and ready to walk to bierzo at 11am.

Tomorrow I'll have Saturday night in los herrerios and on Sunday climb o'Cebreiro before hopefully making it down to triacastela and with luck fitness and timing Sarria. On Monday morning I can make the decision to bus/taxi to Sarria if I don't make it and then train back to Leon/Burgos/Bilbao - the 9:58 and the 12:08 from monforte de lemos get to Leon in 2 hours and it was a scenic trip. If I get the 9:09 from Sarria it should connect so that could be as late as Tuesday. The 11:28 looks like it connects too but what do I know! I always thought Sarria was a wee line between Montfort and lugo or berrerrias.

The lure of the timetable proved too much so I walked to the railway station after I realised I'd been sitting on the 9am Leon to Villafranca del bierzo bus! Ha ha. I looked at next departures and just looked for ponferrada - Villafranca was the one after. I'm glad I had my focus, not distracted by anything else on the screen for a change.

So I'm going to wander in the town and try to get 10,000 steps in before the 3:10pm bus to bierzo. I'll pick up water and if a lavanderia pops up I'll get that too. Then again drink might play a part.

Mental note to self - try not to get stranded in Galicia looking at timetables and receipts. Leon by Tuesday is a good plan!

1.70, 9.60 and €1.65 for my buses shows how cheap travel can be. If I did want a rest period, going across the meseta 5k at a time or from here to O'Cebreiro would be right up there. I could go to cacabelos for example and break the journey to bierzo or as Simon and I did in 2007 walk on to trabedejo. Sunday then for O'CEBREIRO and Monday look to travel from Sarria train station, ideally after a physio if I do the 65-70km in one day. I think I'll try and buy Sarria to Leon from renfe just to waste more time, oh and go to the park by the river.

PONFERRADA

Great bench, shame about the lamppost. My eyes were distracted by the families milling about and dogs off the leash who seemed friendly. Two wee boys, about 4 Years old I reckon, were playing. One was picking up stones, a great Camino pastime while the other was using a stick to gouge dirt out of the ground then wipe it on his brothers coat and trousers, while he continued picking up stones. Once he'd covered his arse enough he mocked him and in fluent Spanish said, ha ha you've shit yourself! How I laughed when the mother said grow up!

How soon they grow, don't worry hen!

The hill that the wee ponferrada castle stands on is a lot more impressive when walking up the bridge to it. I stopped and took photos of the natural defences of river and hill. It would certainly put me off attacking even before the arrows and hot olive oil was raining on me. More importantly I got a breather walking up. Good Friday crowds always slow progress another thing we like on gradients like these.

After walking through the church and to quote Ray Davies lighting some "electric candlelight" I moved across the plaza mayor to one of my favourite bars, le Desileria. What's not to like about red wine and free pinchos. This was queso with anchovie. I'm already salivating over my next choice. The wine is Mencia and although it's now available in Scotland the best stuff is around Bierzo.

I jumped the bus ready for it to be late but it was there. Strangely labelled with love, or Leon to Villafranca, it was just a local bus. When the Leon bus rolled in, they transferred the folk and off we sped. Nae toilet so I called that wrong.


Ok - stoap!

I made a mistake - stoap letting me know - I'll cut and past when I hit a computer- family bits have been fucked up into autistic bit and the conclusion is they're all shit.

We move on.

I brought a bottle back from town and had a great chat with a guy from Peru Denmark and a couple from Israel. Whenever we get close to the holy land my jebus jokes just get jettisoned. I don't know why, some are so good like the good Friday one about, how slow is this queue, ah the guy keeps dropping the cross. I'd say the Jew keeps dropping the cross but apparently more controversial than the Christian fucker keeps dropping the cross.

Im walking 500 miles and this guy does 2km max to his place of execution. I don't believe my comparison is valid or anything else but I do feel jebus had a lot more coverage. Check with the marketing department- what sells? Not a Christian but I hear the calls of all the religious and don't always agree. Religious fuckers are at their best when they work the fields their flocks are in and not when they work the air waves.

I've met so many humbling human beings across the Camino I realise there is hope. Equally there is reality !

Like cheese grater on combine harvester- ooh - that's snoring!

My Brazilian pal who I never saw again...

Were we right or wrong?

I'm starting to feel like I lost my censor xo tell - or as they say I Villafranca del Bierzo- who gives a fuck!


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Camponaraya is about 6k from ponferrade but as you negotiate the town…

Oops - this was for family and friends - fuck I'm stupid - ignore the first chunk then vat on

Camponaraya is about 6k from ponferrade but as you negotiate the town you then get fed via a long detour a picture opportunity at a ermita and then you walk the suburbs and a field. As you leave camponaraya you go off piste in Mencia land and it's great rolling vineyards, culminating in the many bodegas including the cooperative one. The town centre is old and new and has free WiFi, handy when you want to sit on a bench and ignore pilgrims. As you leave town it's over the Rio cua then 2km by the road before you slide of into the vineyards again.

On the bus it's even easier on the eye! I got off in the town centre and then tried the rubbish hotel. As I walked towards it I realised the posh one was full anyway. I'd set my sights realistically low as I had the Albergue or taxi out of town as the fall back. Hotel San Francisco was fully booked. You are having a laugh, this is the only time of the year, surely? I ran towards the Albergue only to take the wrong uphill out of town. Luckily there's a downhill and uphill again and I arrived looking like I'd walked 20k and smiled.

The badge of honour on the Camino.

Clearly turning up pissed after a few bevvies looks like your taking the piss. I'm an old hand so I know how to take the piss quietly, until the snoring starts.

My main reasons for not staying g in Albergue heaven is the looks in the morning. A Brazilian used his translator on me once. You sound like a chainsaw on a metal lamppost. That was in Relegipus in 2014. I've never forgotten what I can do to fellow pilgrims so I work on the one Albergue on and one Albergue off. Never sleep in the same place as a fellow pilgrim unless the options narrow. Tonight they narrowed, but that's ok, I'm new to these people and tomorrow I'll stay in los herrerios! Job done, or at least I think. I'll tell them all I'll be staying at casa polin. Hopefully nobody will pay good money to hear me through the walls.

I had a great chat with the woman from South Africa and had to explain the town was open and not closed as they thought. I wandered down and it's jumping. I think closed to traffic can often be misinterpreted as it's good Friday and all the bars and restaurants are closed. My mum always said, never let a good story get in the way of the truth.

When I arrived in the centre I was astonished to find there's not a seat to be had - which is fair enough - but they're all open!

I hit my favourite wee bar meson los ancares. A tiny place off the plaza but with a couple of chairs and tables there. The restaurant is like jinglin Geordie down a few steps but the owner runs up and down and could do O'CEBREIRO with his eyes shut.

I ran - then jogged, walked and stopped on my way back to the Albergue. Out of breath o realised I was better used as a blocker so tried my best to stop a mother pushing her prom one way while a father came down the track the other way. I kept them at a standstill for at least a minute while I told them my best Spanish joke. It's better than my worst Spanish joke but only because I use 4 words not 5! Don't use verbs, that's all I'm saying.

Having climbed the hill I had to then climb the stairs as they were both in bed hoping to escape the psycho. Unlucky- I found them and thought, fuck this get back to town! I've got my step count up what else matters!


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Step aside you aceitunas!

Ponferrada castle