Los arcos bound with Kevin the mad traveller

Great fun as always and we stumbled into Kevin who was clearly enjoying the break from fall in Wisconsin. I say fall out of courtesy and of course I mean autumn.

There was nothing autumnal about the weather today as the guage went up up and away. It started for us at 7am and it was borderline cool but by the time we climbed out of Estella to arrive at the imperious casa Luisa it was time for breakfast.

Next stop was the irache Fuentes, home of the free wine. 

Even an alcoholic like me doesn't want a glass of wine at 9am but I did put some in my water bottle, in that holy water and wine kinda way.

And then we walked out of villamayor de monjardin passing the church again and the sunflowers, down the hill and we marvelled at the lack of grapes.

After another few steps we were now in Los arcos and I was paraphrasing David Bowie.

Sitting in the market Square, god was gently crying. Pilgrims were sweating and yapping away but the earth well it was dying... it was 5 years......

....is that all we got....5 years.....

So I forgot to say Kevin is from Madison home of butch and Garbage and my tenuous link with Shirley Manson who may or may not have sang on the deadbeat tape with autumn 1904 or even the wild Indians with "maybe". He can ask next time he's in the co-op in Madison.

The bus stop is outside pension mavi. It's the best menu del dia for miles around so if you want to enjoy great food and wine head there. It's by the bus stop so no excuses even for the bus pilgrim.

So we waited on the bus and it turned up 2 minutes late at 17.07. I love thos Camino stuff and am so grateful for every day I get out here.

Tomorrow we will be riding on the 7:45 bus to sansol but who knows we might get off in Los Arcos but judging by the weather if we want to make logrono then we have to get moving early.

Buen Camino 

breakfast at casa Luisa Estella ayegui

An early start saw us finish breakfast by 8.30 as we headed to the water and wine fountain.

Casa Luisa is a lovely cafe on the edge of town.

We ate drank and left after using the luxurious facilities.

week 2 is the Camino Frances

And it's going to be fun.

We finish our Norte experience with a visit to the Basque capital VITORIA-GASTEIZ then it's off to Pamplona for a taste of the Frances.

We are based in Estella for 4 nights so will do 2 days before and 2 after in the heart of the Rioja, finishing in Logrono or possibly one last walk to najera.

The walks are adjusted to the temperature and the bus time table so 8.45am to maneru will be sept 29. Walk back into Estella about 2.30.

Saturday 30th will be 7.45 to Azqueta or  ayegui to los arcos for 13.30 bus back.

Sunday October 1st we will be to sansol and walk to viana. Again the temperature may dictate early start and finish.

If this proves difficult we will get the 8.45 bus to cizur menor and climb the hill mont del perdon and then get the bus along at 2pm from puente la Reina.

 We check out on October 2nd and will head off. Rich on the bus to San Sebastian and me for logrono then Santander.

 I'll meet my next Camino chums, Simon and Mark in santander and then we will base ourselves in Burgos for 3-7th before moving to Leon for 8-10th then Oviedo Gijon and back to santander for the 12th.

Updated Week 1 on the Camino norte

You can watch videos and read blogs but the 5 senses are squared as you take your first steps out of Irun and climb towards Guadalupe.

I did this walk twice 

The first time I got lost and on the second day with Rich it was easier, still magnificent marauding without sticks and it was tough 

The rewards are the views.

Vista upon vista and we loved it 

The climbing is tough with the views very much the reward.

The highlight both days was Paraia.

A small town which you cross by boat

The location is just so remote.

400 steps offer a climb to the lighthouse and it's easy to see why this would be the 6km short day if you felt the whole thing too tough.

Next day Zarautz and what about the views on the way.

Then zamaia and Deba with great views of other coastal towns on the way.

Toughest yet Deba to Markina.

We dodged markina to Guernica as we walked to lezema.

Rest day and the Gernika museum.

We took the mid afternoon train to Bilbao and did some walking and then checked into the flat. It was quite a whirlwind week and when Simon lost his fight with the stanley knife we knew we were into new options now. To sum up the Monday and Tuesday were great reminders for me on my own travelling. I usually lose things and my cashmere left my hand while I walk/ran from Poitiers airport to train station. The good thing was I made it and my passport was in my jacket which I didn't drop. Tuesday morning I was in despair about losing my glasses. I spent 6am to 7am scurrying around looking for them in the donativo albergue where I gave 20 euro so grateful wasI for a bed. I left my boxer shorts hanging on the peg in the shower room or maybe elsewhere but I was so preoccupied by my glasses I wasin bits. I'd sensibly put them on my bag but somehow never saw them until I'd conceded defeat. What elation as I left with no idea where I was going. Normally you see pilgrims but I was just so relieved I made up a direction and was 180 degrees wrong. Google maps straightened me out and by 8am I saw a pilgrim. The rest was much easier but I did really enjoy the freedom of being on my own with no rush. I bought sun cream in Paraia and had a menu del dia, all very sensible and leisurely. I continued on up the tough climb but with a great sense of plenty of time. I needed to arrive by 7pm or even later. The fun finally arrived as my hotel had two sides of the building for checking in and there were major roadworks outside. When I finally navigated around them I found that the door I needed was from whence I'd come. On this occasion looking up for hotel signs was wiser than fixation with google. All was well after I showered and chose a bed and rearranged everything. We were there for two nights so no problems in the morning packing. I got the train along met Rich got the train back and 4 mins from the station was perfect. In the morning we'd make the 7.45am train no problem and Rich would re-unite himself with the famous steps to the platform he'd slept on 40 years earlier, a typical camino moment! Wednesday we walked and in the evening Stu arrived. The usal chaotic plans of agreeing a time then changing it over the course of a few tapas leaves one confused. Rich and I woke quite sharp and after our day before were raring to head off. Stu was 10 mins away so we went down and woke him up and headed for a cafe. I just remembered the bizarre please look after my bag and drink conversation from the night before. Some dude explained he was dying as he ventured out for his fag and gave us our minder role. Traditional camino moment that has just returned. We had a great coffee in the bar, stu arrived and we soon headed off around the big bay and then up the steps and hill. It was amazing up the top. Views and pictures non stop. This kind of walking isnt exercise as you feel like a moving part on someone elses canvass and its just stunning. The initial part by the road was not much to our liking and the spray from the cars as the rain fell lightly would pt a few off but it was worth an hour or even less of that nonsense to enjoy the beauty that followed. We hadn't arranged the same deal for Thursday in Zarautz of doing 2 nights but as soon as I saw the place I said to the guys another 180 euros seems a lot but it is a bedroom each and the shower was perfect. At the time I also thought we would be 15 mins back on the tram from Deba but that changed when we learnt of the station work. Who knew we would pay 225euro for three of us later on in Leon for 3 nights but this area around San Seb is expensive. You make all sorts of excuses in your head driven by laziness, convenience and I'm a sucker for a washing machine. The head also really enjoys a break from the question where are we staying, oh and the kicker is not packing up and moving on. A day off these things helps so much and so enabled a bit of planning on where to stay next. On my own I am happy rolling into town but when there is 3 you can usually get a decent accomodation with someone getting a single or even as we had 3 bedroom places. My next flat trick was a bit of folly. We knew Markina had limited accomodation so when the opportunity to get another 3 bed place in Guernika appeared it seemed a no brainer. We could bus or tax from and back to Markina. We forgot it was Saturday and we also didn't realise that this was to prove the hardest walking day. By the time we got to Deba with the bus/tram we were heading off about 11am. It can be the downside of a two night stay leaving slower as you linger longer and then with the Zarautz tram station renovations we got the 9.20 bus to connect with the 10.40 tram, missing the earlier hourly train by 10 minutes. Happily we cold have a cortado or two at a nearby cafe in Zamaia. Cola Cao and Cortado look and sound very differently but trust me, not the way I or Stu speaks. I started adding an australian lift to Cola Cao, chocolate, and they looked at me in that pitying way reserved for clowns who couldn't wear the shoes or speak the language. Escotia, Stupido, perdone. The walk was undoubtedly our toughest yet but possibly because the heat had also been turned up as the rain was turned off. We also had our back packs and the terrain was always going up, then down, then back up. We were cutting through the interior to Markina and it was tough. There were a few falls on the really steep bits and it was all about going slowly enough to keep your feet. When we were walking we passed a few albergues that never feature when you're pushing the Booking button. Trust in St Jacques I say but apart from arriving at the albergue in Irun we were mostly packaged up. I'll put the prices below including when Rich & I headed to the Camino Frances. Irun - Donativo - $20 San Sebastien - £40 pppn - £166.07 for 2 nights Zarautz - £55 pppn - £166.07 (187$)+180euro for 2 nights Gernika - £37.50 pppn - £223 for 2 nights (256.50$) Bilbao - £36.50 pppn - $252 Vitoria Gasteiz - £19 pppn - $64.80 Estrella - £28 pppn- £224 for 4 nights - $257.05 Hostal Mexicana Santander - £21.50 pppn £64.50 for one night $71.82 Burgos - $168.30 - 2 nights (3 rooms in flat if you slept on sofa 2 bathrooms but leaky showers in one with bath) Cardenuela Rio Pico $22 pppn - $66 including menu del dia (3 lower bunks in dorm) Amanecer - Poblacion/Fromista $40pppn - $120 (3 ensuite rooms) Carrion de Los Condes - $27 pppn -$80 (Quadruple room with big bath/shower room) Housing Leon - $224 for 3 nights (3 bedroom flat with 2 bathrooms) Gijon - $22 pppn Hotel Castilla $66 (small triple room with ensuite) Santander - $20 pppn - $60 (big triple room with ensuite) I dissappeared down the accomodation rabbit hole there but it shows that there are often many options to go big or keep it simple. For me the bargain basement Leon is just so good. Its next to the cafe Epsolon in the part of Leon I always tend to try and go. My only complaint is I rarely get the train or bus back to terradillos des los templarios or Sahagun and walk. I have once made it to Astorga had a session and got bus back but I get lazy and walk to the Babu Africa bar or just around town but I digress. Having arrived on Saturday about 7pm in Markina we had to get a taxi. We had no idea how tough it would be but luckily Stu struck gold and we were in the apartment for 8pm and out by 8.45pm with the washing on the line. The taxi had cost $55 including tip so we were delighted but as the night wore on walking out of Gernika was winning the vote and Markina to Gernika would wait for another year. Markina was really busy on Saturday night and is a basque mecca as it is alone in the mountains a good 20 miles from the train stops to the South and South west. I think I'll book a hotel next year once I have my plans pinned down. So when we awoke on Sunday we had a leisurely walk to Lezema in mind and if it was too easy we'd carry on to Bilbao. Compared to the day before it was pretty easy mountanous bits and then the heat hit when we had the 4km roadway into Lezema. Train station won. We never even got a drink, or a toilet, we just got a ticket and jumped on 10 minutes later. Again an hourly train so worth taking it straight away. The journey was also a lot longer than expected. Lezema train comes in from the east and does a loop before you can then change onto a train slightly more SE ot of Bilbao to Gernika. Perfectly simple on the map. We go into Bilbao at 2 and leave at 5 on the clock face. Luckily the time wasn't that long but the toilet was in short supply and I'd drunk a lot of water. Suffice to say we should've got the train to Bilbao casco viejo, got off had a drink then got the train to Gernika, but we didn't. I held my bladder and then ran from train station to flat and finally got relief. More washing followed and as I kept mine inside it was dry while the others went for leaving it outside in the overnight cloud. It was a proper cloud when we woke up and you couldn't see the town for it. We were signtseeing today and took in the museum before a tram to Bilbao and a stroll around. Its obligatory to go to Cafe Iruna and so we did and then we went for a menu del dia. We got refused at the first place so went next door and were delighted. Serendipidy indeed. Finally we went to the flat where the guy met us gave us the keys and i took one look and thought, Dancer! The twin room and double room were to the front but an interior box room grabbed my attention so having had the doubles I took the box. The kitchen/living room was huge. A bit like the cockroach we saw on the morning we were leaving. I threw it out, arms up its back but it was over an inch long so put up a struggle on meagre me. We had a siesta then a drink on our balcony then headed into the old town. We had a great night then planned our strategy for walking around the town. Up to the bus stop via the river and guggenheim and then back down to town going up the hill away from the river and in and around all these wee bars and boulevards. Bilbao always has cheek by jowl new and old, merged at times, juxtaposed at times and stark contrast other times. All good for sight seeing. Then we climbed the big hill behind our flat and got to the top before coming down and having another excellent menu del dia.

ramuntchu et fat Al

Starting a Camino in style

There's no doubt the world is always changing and when on Camino it's usually for the better.

Best train journey ever

Camino packing tips 2007-2023

Ok there are loads of videos and many valuable pieces of information so feel free to ignore mine.

You've heard about the pinkie test. Yes lift your bag with your little finger.

Second up have you heard of shops? Whatever Camino you take there is usually a big city like Pamplona or San Sebastian within your first few days. If you really worry that you'll need nail clippers on arrival you probably need to get a taxi.

Simon Stu Scott and I found ourselves in the north lakes recently in Ousby. Notice how Simon carries his water. Plastic bottles we don't normally buy - but buy on Camino we do. Carry and drink, don't carry from town to town. Camel up at a tap.

The airlines have done us a favour by saying one small bag free. It's light and carries what you need. You will be carrying additional items like bread or water so handy poly or onion string bags, pegs etc are worthy. Some people use the laundry string bag. Smart people. Light, attachable and long enough for a loaf.

I took a picture of nail clippings before going on the Camino finisterre Muxia in April or was it September and fellow Pellegrino Simon thought, aha, yes, I'll do that. Another good trim worth considering is your hair.

Seriously though, you can buy nail clippers like sun screen, umbrellas and even walking poles so don't panic purchase before you leave. Spain is probably the same price or less. There are shops, hairdressers and it's nice to spend local. Talking of spending, I've moved over to phone cash, so whether you're Google or apple pay it's normal and I think much more equitable. I used to carry a pre paid card but now it's just cash and or phone cash when I want to buy coffee or Crocs.

Crocs are universally worn and sold so if you have a pair you want to bring please do but you might not need them for a few days. Yesterday's socks are my crocs and on old stone floors, just as cosy.

I like olives and I frequently buy things I need to put in boxes. I've seen myself carrying boxes of poly bags squirted with bite cream, sun cream, after sun, foot cream. I really was a tad precious on 2013, but I was keeping room for my lap top and charger! I don't want to advocate too many plastics but whenever you stay in an albergue or a flat you buy things that you leave and some you want to take. Cheese needs a box, just like olives and slices of tomato.

Electrics are funny. We can't have enough technology to capture the moments but I'm back to minimalist now. I live vicariously through others you tube films and can admire their work while still feeling the moments in this albergue or that cafe iruna in Bilbao or pamplona, Cardenuela Rio Pico or Ponferrade and how about the rain on the north coast or in Galicia. I've great memories of Camino pals from the 20+ times I've joined the pellegrino gang. When I scope the route briefly and see a hill I immediately recoil to my smoking days pre 2005. I cough, splitter and generally think, time for a taxi, but most of all, I smile and say bye bye lap top.

September 2023 - Camino updates and mumbling - Friday flight back October 13th

Update Thursday - fat Al changes plans again.

Poitiers 18th

14.59 Train to Bordeaux

18.05 train to Hendaye

Arrive Hendaye

Walk to albergue des Pellegrino's get a credential and a bed.

Tuesday  19th

Walk 25km to San Sebastian

Get breakfast and water/juice.

Lunch in Pasaia after 18km at 2-3pm

Big hill out of town starts 7km stretch

Arrive a room in the city hostel at 5-6pm

18.00

Get 8pm tram to Hendaye meet Rich

Get 9pm tram to San Sebastian

Wednesday 20th

Get tram to Irun and walk same route to San Sebastian to arrive about 6pm.

Meet Stu off bus 

Dump his bag

Tippy tapas 

Thursday 21st -20km

Walk up huge hill on way to Zarautz

First 5km is like hunto arriving at igueido and should take 2 hours whereas the next 9 kms will be along the top and down to Orio. As we have to carry water and snacks it'll be very tough. 

Arriving Orio about 2pm and then a little hill and in.

Breakfast in San Sebastian then leave town by 9.30 to arrive puggled in Zarautz 4pm is the executive summary!

Accomodation either on the front at the hostel or in an apartment Kaixo about 400m from the beach. Weather dependent.

Friday 22nd

Leave Zarautz at 8.30am and I like the look of Zumaya for elevenses although Askizu may find itself as a lovely place to stop as well. I feel age encourages stops and after yesterday we may be going a bit slower. If we get there for 10 we can leave at 10.15 to go downhill for 11 at Zumaya.

Then we climb again until the big drop into Deva. I'd reckon this could be 5 hours so a lot of water getting carried.

It's only 23.9km on the map

But it'll feel like 32km.

Friday night in Deba, you know the party starts here, zzzzzzz. Sleep well pilgrim.

Saturday morning and it's time for a stretch. We've only done 69km but for some of our aged bones it'll feel a whole lot more. Deba to Marquina will feel a bit easier but there's still at 300m hill in the middle of a fairly gentle 23.5km stroll through forest and farmland 

Olatz seems to be the main stop so we should get a bocadillo lunch stop about 11.30-12.30 there. If we get to Larruskain by 2.30 and Marquina by 5pm another good day in the bin. Carrying lots of water and doing a lot of camel drinking at fountains will be essential.

It's a little bit of hills again today and so climbing and descending will be foremost. Stuart is bound to be galloping away and a rerun of Cruz de ferro seems most likely. My money is on Richard and Stu to be 15 mins ahead by Askizu on Friday and olatz on Saturday but I'll be playing the long game or sitting in the woods (oops typo) while shuffling my morning paper.

So Sunday morning we stretch our legs and walk to Gernika. Our easiest day yet.

It's hard to describe how your muscles and knees are after all this up and down. I get really sore above the knees as my thighs push down and the 17st pummels into my shock absorbers.

It looks fairly flat and almost a third by the road so ear plugs in and striding out. It looks like two good stopping places after 5km and another 6km which would be great  another 8km sees us reach Santo Tomas and then the final 6 to Gernika.

I may have rose tinted specs but I think if we leave around 8am we will arrive about 4pm no bother.

Monday 25th we wake up to the sound of the Luftwaffe overhead as we replay 87 years ago and 1936. It'll be quite eerie knowing the way my dreams work but also when the town has fully moved on and is just another northern Spanish thriving metropolis.

Simon arrives tonight so our destination is Bilbao, but we may only walk to Ledema.

It's 27km with a 300m gradual hill to the gerekiz restaurant at Santa Maria de Morga. As long as there's a fountain I'll be happy. I'll carry juice and a donut up the hill as it's 14km. 

Larrabetzu has two cafes and it's here we make our decision about walking on to Bilbao or getting the euskotren.

It makes our day 36km but it does look pretty easy relatively speaking and so it's an option. As I lie here typing this with 2km in my legs today it's an easy thing to type. Simon arrives at bus station about 9 and we may have some washing to do. Bilbao is a huge city to walk through so personally I'd walk to our lodgings and in the morning tram.

The next two days are flat, hence Simon arriving!

Update Monday Poitiers flight wins. I'll fly monday 18th and get 3pm train to Bordeaux and change onto train arriving 20.47 I think Monday and stay in Albergue at Irun. Tuesday 19th Walk to San Sebastian and then get checked in somewhere with 3 beds for me and Rich for tuesday adding Stu for wednesday. Get train/tram along tuesday to meet Rich off the train in Hendaye then back along to San Seb. Walk out of San Seb to Zarautz and then get the tram back (or do the first day of the camino Norte again from Irun - San SEbastian) now I know the way (!) Wednesday So probably short day to Zarautz then Back to flat and do a washing! Stu arrives 9pm and we all set out Thursday 21st in the morning to Deba from Zarautz. Friday 22nd - DEBA TO MARKHINA SATURDAY MARKINA to Gernika Sunday 24th to Lezama a leisurely day washing today or in Bilbao. Monday September 25th - Bilbao Simon arrives from Santander about 8pm-9pm. By this stage we'll know how tough or easy we are finding it and rip the plan up and plan again! Day 1: Arrive in San Sebastián Day 2: San Sebastián to Zarautz | 20km Day 3: Zarautz to Deba | 23km Day 4: Deba to Markina | 23km Day 5: Markina to Guernica | 23km Day 6: Guernica to Lezama | 21km Day 7: Lezama to Bilbao | 15km This was from July 31st The first half of the year was superb with January and April/MAy camino around Santiagp. Jackie's broken ankle on Friday 9th June was hardly the present Simon expected for his 61st and caught me unawares as I pulled my poncho off in Casa Loncho. I got a room and was delighted. Fantastic staff smiled at my drenched wee self gave me the key and offered to show me to the room. In typical pelegrino fashion I put down my bag and settled for a beer first. Then the room, shower and snooze. Little did I know I'd be back later having read my phone with Jackie's ankle and discussing how to get back home pronto. There was a bus but it left in 30 minutes and with Santiago likely to be busy and with my bed only a few yards away it seemed obvious to enquire about a taxi. 80euro was the same price as a last minute room and a lot less hassle. 5 beers, bacon and eggs then bed became the obvious move. Back to the point, September 17th flight from Stansted to Biarritz. £22 seems an obvious 06:20 flight. So I'll book it. Once I get off plane I can go to spain, 2 ways. I have the option of Hendaye/Irun and the primotivo/Norte or One more timeSt Gien. I'm only 60 and I need the hills to keep it real, both offer that. I'd arrive with little sleep but that's no great problem especially if I chose to walk out to Hunto/Orrisson. I've not checked the other options. The camino Frances route is roughly 30-34 days so its easy to map where you will be. Sunday night Hunto means Sunday night Logrono, Saturday night Burgos and then we approach Leon for Saturday 8th October. Ponferrade 12th, O'Cebreiro 14th, Sarria 16th, Palas Del Rei 19th Santiago 22nd. Ive got an appointment to get back for currently on the 9th October. IF I can, I'll shift it, but if not I'll need to fly back from Madrid or Santander. I reckon I should be at Fromista about 5th/6th so that works well. If its the Norte flying back is even easier as Santander is bang on the route. Rough timings are less easy but Bilbao for 27th September and Santander October 3rd then Gijon 11th for the Teenage fan Club or Ferrol on October 13th has appeal. Since Simon and I went off piste to Vitoria for the gig last September as reviewed elsewhere and on the Deadbeatfanzine.blogspot.com site, this distraction has a lot of appeal. It keeps you in the camino bubble but still not so far up your own arse that you can see the rest of the world functioning. So to finalise this stage of the planning, I'll book the biarritz flight. And now the update - la Lande may be getting sold so I might fly to poitiers on the 18th. Rich arriving Hendaye 19th Stu Bilbao on the 20th when we will be in San Sebastian. We will all walk to Bilbao in 6 days and Simon flies in Late to Santander so we need to collect or meet him. LAst bus to Bilbao will be fine. We will then walk to Santander for 2nd October when Mark arrives and Rich heads back along for the Hendaye to London on the 3rd. We may all go along on the Irun bus and split off in San Seb for Pamplona or Logrono, depending how Mark's training's been going and also how the craic is on the Norte. That's the update with only 19 days or so to go!