That is the essence of believing in fate. In my case it's trusting in fate. It's believing in what fate produces is my most majestic belief.
I honestly believe that fate around the corner is like, how would we say, good for me. I don't feel uncertain or uncomfortable. I honestly feel strongly that it will be new experience. I find that good things happen when you encounter things you weren't expecting.
I also get shit scared that I'm bluffing. I was so delighted when we stuck to the high road on our way to St Vincente de Barquera. It meant that when we did finally join the road it was short lived and we were able to get back away from the traffic and onto the beach.
The stretch of coastline is quite simply magnificent, so its well worth doing again.
We had got the bus to Santillana del MAr and whilst you think you'll see the sea what you get is a wee medieval town centre with everything a bit overpriced for the likes of me.
The hotel we stayed in by the green was the better part of town as I found the city centre like the centre of most of the camino towns in Northern Spain, old and attractive.
I found Santillana had cobbles like Pamplona, Ponferrade or Puente La Reina. Does the wee castle of Ponferrade triump over them all, for me visually yes.
I maybe shouldve read some marketing literature to see why it was so good but instead we wandered found a couple of places and chilled.
Next day we took off early from our lovely wee hotel. It was very reasonable, so that appealed to my modest means, and we had breakfast thrown in.
Their electrics werent fully restored, a common theme as I dug out cash instead of card. I'd brought 600 with me so it proved handy. Its no suprise to see everyone has a way of getting around booking.com fees and later on in Burgos I paid 402 euro in cash and saw that the owner had rejected my booking owing to a card issue. There was no problem with getting the keys and it was a great price for 5 days in the city centre so I've no problem with it. It could unnerve you if you were travelling on a hot day and it looked like your booking had been cancelled while you had a siesta but I'd not been walking, had a receipt and so just accepted it was a normal way to operate. Taxes, fees and commissions are dodged the world over by the rich, the poor and everyone in between.
When we left Santillana the route takes you up and down. Its a brilliant meander through quiet country roads as you walk 8km to get to the town that was 5km away when you started. We're on camino now, I mused, properly walking round in circles away from the noise.
Our first stop was at the top of the hill with a church. I thought I'd get to light candles, I was wrong.
I did get to put sun cream on, drink the juice and eat my food.
We enjoyed a good 20 minute break and stretch. I like to support the cafes by going in at the every opportunity. The truth is its ok to bring your own food and stop on a bench where the views are magnificent. After doing this for 18 years I think that is by far my greatest lesson, just chill.
Once we'd climbed the hill we were always going to go down and so we did until we got to the town at half way. We were given a choice to go down the hill and bypass the main road in or stick to where it looked like there would be a cafe. We took the high road, keeping the altitude and stopped for coffee.
It was great to go to the toilet too. Also the energy levels are so variable I got myself an extra juice. If there's one lesson I need to keep repeating its the dioralyte message. Keeping hydrated, post cancer treatment aside, is the most forgotten thing for me. I remember once I'm done in.
Later on as we descended all the way down to the magnificent wee beach, I thought the same. Hydration and hills go hand in hand. As we left sea level and climbed I noticed instead of lagging behind Simon, I was striding passed him. Considering I was out on my feet upon hitting the first hill out of Castro Urdiales I was well chuffed.
It was a 15 minute hill.
I took a lot of pictures back to the town.
I also stood for ages admiring the view down to the hotel by the beach.
It got better the higher we climbed although Simon wasnt getting much chance to admire it.
I was really confused about how I had suddenly found my legs. It was exceedingly unusual.
When we got to the top there was a little garden with fountains.
The gardeners were in and it was a bit noisy but totally worthy of a stop.
We took the water, got our breath back and soldiered on.
Our next stop was as a result of keeping to the high ground. I saw a really nice cafe but Simon figured it was a wedding. We didn't see any other pilgrims but having said that, you rarely do on this stretch as there are a few ways to go and the Norte is quiet.
When we did finally stop it was a great piece of cake. The local restaurant is a destination place. Most people arriving did so in cars and the tables were all being dressed for lunch when we arrived.
I had a similar cake later in St Vicente de Barquera and it wasn't in the same league. We paid half the 5 euro we'd paid up the hill but quality is quality. I like treating myself on a 2 euro item not a 200 euro item.
When we were walking the beach it was simply magnificent.
There were the surfers, the families, beach games. Its just a big party.
We got to a bar, ordered a beer and took another 20 minutes to savour it.
Just to feel the ambience is everything.
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