Plans for 2017 involve a spring outing and the full camino in September/October.
Springtime will be the completion of the section Stu has yet to see. Santo Domingo to Burgos.
There are a number of brilliant places to stay - and also some of the worst (aka Recedilla)
So the trip will be
Santo Domingo to Granon, Recedilla and then onto the road to Belorado 22km
Belorado to Tosantos, Villambista and then Montes de Oca 12km
Montes de Oca to St Juan de Ortega, Ages, Atapuerca and finally Cardenuela Riopico 24km
Cardenuela by rio pico - one of my favourite places - google fatal-bananas/cardenuela and you'll see why. You could try to navigate on the site but you could be a while. Cardenuela is just before Orbanejo and then the long walk around the airport (navigate across the river) and into Burgos. A short 15km
All told its 73km so 2 days good walking or 4 half days!
When Si and I did it in 2007 we did Azofra - Recedilla, then to Montes de Oca and then Atapuerca, before a short day to Burgos. Harry in 2011 had just done his head in (!) and had 4 stitches so we were less adventurous.
Azofra - Santo Domingo, then we slept!
Saturday, 29 October 2016
Saturday, 15 October 2016
Camino VI finished in Santander - but how did it go with the plan!
Short Camino plans are fluid so here's what we actually did - I like the Mundicamino.com website as it was the one we used back in 2007 to guage how hard or easy our walks would be and where appropriate I have put the Mundicamino stage, eg Burgos - Hornillos 13/34, stage 13 of 34.
WEDNESDAY - Sept 28 - arrive Santander from Edinburgh. 21.00 bus into town and twin room 34euro by station.
Sept 29 - The bus cost 12.90euro and the 12:00 was fasted getting in at 2.40. It has internet access and mini ipad in the back of all the seats so the journey passes too quickly! Checked in for our 63 euro for 3 bedroom in the central hotel alda entrearcos. Superb. And 2 nights total is 38euro for accomodation but the drinking and tapas is nearer 100!
FRIDAY - Sept 30 - WALKING DAY 13/34, 20km, arrive hornillos del camino. 48 euros for a four bed room with ensuite. Its bunk beds but its a good price. This albergue is opposite the shop as you come into town and used to be a casa rural. We met Andre and Bernadette there in 2011 and its claim to fame is that the guy who runs it is the brother of Emilio Estevez's love story daughter in law. The film the way is well documented and when filming it the story is Emilio's son fell in love with .... and the next thing the poor wee girl is taken from Spain to Hollywood. Personally I would've told them to come to Spain, but I'm sure they do from time to time, either way its nice that there is a sequel in the making. Lots of food and drink in this town but the bill was pretty small. Accomodation now up to 50euro.
Saturday - Oct 1 - WALKING DAY, 14/34, 20km to Castrojeriz - a very easy stroll and another 1pm finish. Well - nearer 2pm but Paul got a taxi as big Dom only had three days so they took a taxi to Burgos and then on to Fromista. Paul got us a 5 bed room in an albergue sharing with two Dubliners who had practiced walking Stackstown golf course. Muriel and ....oops Ive forgotten. He never forget Paul's name and checked where we were staying the next night, to make sure the snoring schnackers were in the next town. Paul reminded us at 10 euro, we'd copped a bargain, just past the hotel jacobus and opposite the hotel/cafe bar it was a superb albergue and lets face it four nights and accomodation is now 60 euro.
Oct 2 - WALKING DAY, 15/34, 24km to Fromista - SUNDAY - a good MEETING spot as it has the Santander-Madrid train running through it, as well as the grand canal. The 2pm train to my knowledge doesnt stop in Fromista but the 3.30 train does. The Ryanair flight arrives at 10am so plenty time to go to train station and then take in the tapas bars of Santander, or even go a half hour walk up to the beach area. Roger did exactly that and when he arrived in Fromista Paul has truly been stiched up. We had told Paul while we were w2alking kjust how loud his snoring was. On arrival at Fromista I told him I'd booked two twin rooms because I couldnt get a 3 bed, then I laughed and said its because he's won the single room prize. At 100 euro for two rooms Stu and I would pay 33 each to ensure we got a sleep. After 5 nights in our accommodation would still be under 100 euro and we might get a sleep!
As we had arrived in Fromista by 1pm we had loads of time to kill, and so we went to the alber4gue and asked if we could do a washing. Here's the deal with the Municipal Albergue. These people work really hard for nothing and if you ask with a smile and wait patiently for 3-4 minutes they are the best people in the world. Paul is the absolute no spanisho to talkio, just pishio loveo. Guess what, yepo, we got all our washing done for 4 euro and also a tube of lube for our chaffing'eo. The boy is a natural in communication.
So now we go to the posh hotel & pub where Paul stayed with Ryan last year. The bar man remembered him as the guy who took a taxi to Terradilos del Templairios one day for an afternoon session with Harry and then the next year spent 200 euro on a taxi to Santander when the train drivers were on strike and Ryan's flight was being called!
So this year we sat our and got tinto de virano'd until Maggie, Paul's Vancouver Island artist and former nursing pal arrived, then little John who has a pal who knee caps people in Brisbane (or possibly Adelaide). He used to live in Adelaide but maybe moved to Brisbane so he could be incognito. Either way we moved onto a very stout bottle of 14 degree wine in the 27 degree heat. After 5 of them I sneaked back with the washing and then dodged down to the railway station to meet the Dodge himself who had navigated easily the road, rail and air trip from Edinburgh. Hard to believe it is that easy to have left you house and 12 house later had lunch in Santander and then dinner in Fromista. He sneaked up and blindsided our Paul, the video of which will be posted shortly. A master stroke having the neutrals there and off we went to tea.
Sorry Paul ya dafty, you're now sharing a room!
The accommodation tally for 5 nights now stands at 85 euro a nice balance of twin rooms and upper market albergue!
Monday - October 3 WALKING DAY 16/34 19km to Carrion des los Condes - we will take the normal route out and then the river route through fields culminating in a 5km walk at the side of the road from Villalcazar de Sirga to Carrion. Staying at the far end of town in the 35 euro posh gaff.
There are good places for breakfast stops 3k out of town and after them you then take the river route - turn right at the bridge - and its a pleasant stroll in the country. 5km further down is an oasis with a water fountain and if the cafe is open you can use the facilities, otherwise its a hedge. Villacazar de Sirga is another 6k down and has a very old, or as I said to Milton and Diane a very very old church. They took a look inside and confirmed it was, "a very very old church" which came with a "very very grumpy concierge wanting to close his building!"
As Milton and Diane were also staying at the Hotel Zoilo I thought it wise I book. Booking.com proved very useful and I quickly had two room for 70 euros each. I hate the idea of strolling into town and finding the place I want to stay at is full, but equally these apps are out there so an element of planning is mandatory nowadays or you must relax about staying in albergues. The Dodge and Paul were ahead of us by 90 minutes, I was going to say a football field, but thats 90 yards, they were ahead of us by a match!
Stu and I are slow starters and enjoy a long breakfast stop and can fritter away half an hour just putting our boots on after lunch but be motored through the afternoon and caught up with the boys in Carion des los Condes. They'd checked in, had a shower, siesta and were now out for a good bevy! Ok we were now behind by 2 hours but we'd arrived. Having checked in we got a drink at the bar and headed back into town for a menu del dia. We decided just to graze.
Accommodation is now 120 euro for 6 nights. Bang in line with 20 euro a night, but for how long!
I will update the next stage in the next few days as we got the 16 euro bus to Leon
Tuesday - October 4 Bus to Leon and off to Jamon Jamon. We stayed at the Posada Regia Leon, 100euro for the two twin rooms and a deal on breakfast for 5euro each.
We'd stayed in the San Zoilo so it was great to have a long lie and go into town for breakfast at 10:30. I think it might've been 11am by the time I arrived but it was good to to take the stroll of 1km to the bus stop, aka the cafe at the start of Carrion de los Condes.
The bus was a bit late when it rolled into town to dump some people off and pick up another 20 to litter along the meseta! So we left around 12 and arrived about 2:15 and went up to the hotel, waylaid by only one beer. Leon is the capital of free pinchos although Ponferrade does rival it. We dumped the bags at the hotel and headed to Jamon Jamon. 5 euros for 4 wines and 4 pieces of cheese, bread and 12 pieces of meat. Embutidos, Queso y Pan. It doesn't get any better, but we also went to see Jesus Gonzalez at La Trebede. He was the first guy to recognise me and considering I only drink in his bar once a year, I'm not exactly local, but I do tend to arrive about the same time every year. Stuart and Paul had gotten pictures last year so after a vino tinto in the shade we moved across the square to the sunshine.
Roger was getting the bus back to Santander in the morning so after another 15 wines we went early to bed about midnight and got up to early for breakfast. It opened at 8am and we were there far too early, normally a 2am finish ensures a 9:30 breakfast but today we were hitting the 9am buses.
150euro for 7 nights is our running total for accommodation.
Oct 5 - Roger got the Wednesday bus service to Santander via Oviedo and Paul, Stu and I got the bus to Astorga. Stu and I got off at Hospital d'Orbigo and Paul headed up to get our accommodation. The route from Hospital D'Orbigo is entertaining if you go off piste. There is a longer alternative route which we took and goes up into the mountains and then down into Astorga. On arrival Paul had completed the huge list of tasks we'd given him. A bed was secured in a 12 bed dorm at 10euro, its just after the Hotel Gaudi and is a great Albergue. This was the first time we went to a shop and bought food and drink. 33euros goes a long way and we had the kitchen to ourselves. Thereafter we walked back down to the main square and the last cafe/bar on the right served us 1euro vino with superb wee pincho pizzas. It looked like a 3 euro place so we were stunned and had another 2.
The 10pm Albergue shut down meant we had to follow the yellow arrows back through the town to the albergue to our stash of vino tinto and so we did!
A cheap day and the accommodation ticker ticks back to 160euro for 8 nights.
Oct 6 Astorga to Rabanal is 20km, 24/34. More trees on this stretch once you get past the towns and into the hills. The first 5km is largely around the roads. The next 5km to Santa Catalina is rising trails as you head into the mountains. Another coffee stop before we reach the cowboy town El Ganso. The new albergue here looks superb. Its just after the cowboy bar, 100m probably. I dont know how many beds it has or if its just a tienda with rooms, but we cracked on up the hill to Rabanal. This part of the trail is quite exposed for 4km before the last 2km in the woods tripping over tree roots.
A new hostal on the very edge of town on the left caught my eye and we had to go in. It was superb, 2 months old and 25 each for a twin and 30 for a single. The snorer got the single and we showered and headed into Rabanal. After walking up the hill to the top we wandered down to the old albergue where we sat outside shooting the breeze with Karen from Australia. She was happy drinking in Albergues but like us would always choose twin rooms with her pal Louise. Back down the hill for Stuart to feed cats with his menu del dia. Well, we say feed cats but there was lemongate. Suffice to say, the cat which followed Stu everywhere....is no longer his friend.
By this time we were ready to head back to the Hostal and it was time to move onto bottles. The hopitalero was really getting into us and so were the locals. Marcos told us how beautiful it was down at Monforte de Lemos and I knew we could get a train there and then another one back up to Sarria. More drink followed and then some pinchos, then toothgate. My front teeth have never been particularly strong since I gave up smoking. The tar had been holding everything together slowly left the building over the last 10 years and I've had more teeth out and fillings redone than ever. Before I go on too long, I bit into some embutidos and next thing I heard a crunch I didn't expect to hear. Once I fished the broken piece of tooth out of my mouth, I rinsed with red wine and got on with my map plans with Marcos. More drink, then finally bed. In the morning we had a bottle of red in the room, Oops, sorry guys!
Oct 7 Friday we get to Cruz de Ferro - then down to El Acebo an easy up hill WALKING DAY 18km walk 25/34. Its very steep downhill in parts so we stopped in El Acebo at the big new place at the end of town and had a swim in the ice bath pool. Its 20m long so two lengths and your fingers went white whilst all other digits disappeared.
Stu had hammered on ahead and I was an hour behind as my body really wasn't playing the game. Breakfast and a shower still saw me last out and severely dehydrated. I walked up behind a pack of school kids and found a sock on the route. It was all I could do to bend down and pick it up but I knew how annoying it is to lose one sock so the least I could do was carry it. When I caught the kids I asked the teachers if anyone had lost a sock in my best Spanish. "UH? Perdu?" waving sock. It worked. One kid said yeah, me!
Paul waited for me at Foncebadon and I'm delighted to say I said "hi, toilet water then walk".
At Cruz de Ferro I laid more stones than I care to mention but all is good for people around the world including the two from Dublin who sadly are no longer with us.
On to Manjarin where the curiousity did not kill the cat but saw fat Al chased by a fuckin huge mountain dog, thankfully on a long enough lease to scare me now eat me. As fat pilgrims go I clearly looked like lunch. The pictures are on 500m.wordpress.
A triple room with breakfast cost us 25 euro each taking our accommodation up to 213 euro as we follow one luxury after another.
We met Rebecca from Twickenham and had a great laugh as I got told to lower my voice as I was spoiling this person's tranquillity. As you all know I shout too much when people are only 2 feet away! Many jokes about church and moving table ensued, but very quietly!
Oct 8 saturday walk to Ponferrade and then we went to the train station. We had a plan to go to Monforte but on closer examination, going a bit further on the train meant we could bus straight up towards Eirexe. Job done we arrived at Ourense and couldnt get a place to stay. We jumped a taxi, 6 euro albergue and what a find! Ourense is on the Silver Route from Sevilla and the train journey to get there is as scenic a railway through massive canyons can be. Loads of pictures.
Accommodation 219 euro now for 11 nights
Oct 9 Sunday Bus then WALKING DAY as we got off the bus at Ventas, or 2km away and walked to Eirexe. Our man Jose was on the bar, we shook his hand, booked in 30 euro twin room 25 for a single and had 20-25 bottles of wine, pincho moruno, platters of cheese and hams. Superb. The whole deal when we stay in Eirexe is that you just feel the full on love of the camino. We shared our day there with Dari a Korean out of Dublin and Patrick a Rhode Island dude out of Texas. Dari had finished her masters in English and was doing the Camino before heading home whilst Patrick was heading to Barcelona at the end to maybe do teaching English.
Accommodation 237 euro now for 12 nights
Oct 10 MONDAY - Waking at 8am in the single room I realised I'd lost the boys again. Paul's a 7am fag and out so when I saw the smiley face on the table next to an empty cup I knew he'd been and gone. I bought a bottle of water and said cheerio to Jose and headed down the road. Walking stopping and more walking as I hoped to make our way to bus link to go via LUGO or back via LEON. I finally got a cafe at A brea and thats when I realised they were behind me, still in bed!
So I'll finish the rest later!----TBC.........
Easiest is taxi down to Perdafita O'Cebreiro (4km away on busy twisting road) then we bus to LUGO. The 7.50 from LUGO arrives at 13.40 so its the obvious route, others are discussed below. Stu would get it on Tuesday and Paul and I would decide to get it with him or on the wednesday.
We can take a bus to Arzua which means we might get to stop at the town called Eirexe. The important thing is to make sure Stu makes it to Santander for his tuesday flight. If we can connect with the Santiago to Barcelona bus that arrives at Santander airport at 2.55pm or 6.50pm it will work well. The 7.50 from LUGO arrives at 13.40 or can involve a change after arriving 11am at Oviedo. The change option leaves Oviedo at 11.45 and arrives at the Santander Airport at 14.55. Handy if you want to break your journey with a quick bite to eat.
If we connect with the bus that arrives at Santander airport at 6.50pm it will also work well. The 9.00 from Santiago hits VILLALBA (a taxi from LUGO) at 11.15 before heading through Ribadeo 12.15 then arriving 14.30 at Oviedo. It leaves Oviedo at 15.45 and arrives at the Santander Airport at 18.50. As it goes into Santander first at 18.40 its perfect for a 9pm flight. Either way Monday is our last real walking day. We will wave our camino pals good bye and set our sights on the camino home.
October 11 Tuesday Travel to Santander via Lugo for Stu while we will have a night in Lugo?
October 12 Wednesday leave LUGO @7.50am
WEDNESDAY - Sept 28 - arrive Santander from Edinburgh. 21.00 bus into town and twin room 34euro by station.
Sept 29 - The bus cost 12.90euro and the 12:00 was fasted getting in at 2.40. It has internet access and mini ipad in the back of all the seats so the journey passes too quickly! Checked in for our 63 euro for 3 bedroom in the central hotel alda entrearcos. Superb. And 2 nights total is 38euro for accomodation but the drinking and tapas is nearer 100!
FRIDAY - Sept 30 - WALKING DAY 13/34, 20km, arrive hornillos del camino. 48 euros for a four bed room with ensuite. Its bunk beds but its a good price. This albergue is opposite the shop as you come into town and used to be a casa rural. We met Andre and Bernadette there in 2011 and its claim to fame is that the guy who runs it is the brother of Emilio Estevez's love story daughter in law. The film the way is well documented and when filming it the story is Emilio's son fell in love with .... and the next thing the poor wee girl is taken from Spain to Hollywood. Personally I would've told them to come to Spain, but I'm sure they do from time to time, either way its nice that there is a sequel in the making. Lots of food and drink in this town but the bill was pretty small. Accomodation now up to 50euro.
Saturday - Oct 1 - WALKING DAY, 14/34, 20km to Castrojeriz - a very easy stroll and another 1pm finish. Well - nearer 2pm but Paul got a taxi as big Dom only had three days so they took a taxi to Burgos and then on to Fromista. Paul got us a 5 bed room in an albergue sharing with two Dubliners who had practiced walking Stackstown golf course. Muriel and ....oops Ive forgotten. He never forget Paul's name and checked where we were staying the next night, to make sure the snoring schnackers were in the next town. Paul reminded us at 10 euro, we'd copped a bargain, just past the hotel jacobus and opposite the hotel/cafe bar it was a superb albergue and lets face it four nights and accomodation is now 60 euro.
Oct 2 - WALKING DAY, 15/34, 24km to Fromista - SUNDAY - a good MEETING spot as it has the Santander-Madrid train running through it, as well as the grand canal. The 2pm train to my knowledge doesnt stop in Fromista but the 3.30 train does. The Ryanair flight arrives at 10am so plenty time to go to train station and then take in the tapas bars of Santander, or even go a half hour walk up to the beach area. Roger did exactly that and when he arrived in Fromista Paul has truly been stiched up. We had told Paul while we were w2alking kjust how loud his snoring was. On arrival at Fromista I told him I'd booked two twin rooms because I couldnt get a 3 bed, then I laughed and said its because he's won the single room prize. At 100 euro for two rooms Stu and I would pay 33 each to ensure we got a sleep. After 5 nights in our accommodation would still be under 100 euro and we might get a sleep!
As we had arrived in Fromista by 1pm we had loads of time to kill, and so we went to the alber4gue and asked if we could do a washing. Here's the deal with the Municipal Albergue. These people work really hard for nothing and if you ask with a smile and wait patiently for 3-4 minutes they are the best people in the world. Paul is the absolute no spanisho to talkio, just pishio loveo. Guess what, yepo, we got all our washing done for 4 euro and also a tube of lube for our chaffing'eo. The boy is a natural in communication.
So now we go to the posh hotel & pub where Paul stayed with Ryan last year. The bar man remembered him as the guy who took a taxi to Terradilos del Templairios one day for an afternoon session with Harry and then the next year spent 200 euro on a taxi to Santander when the train drivers were on strike and Ryan's flight was being called!
So this year we sat our and got tinto de virano'd until Maggie, Paul's Vancouver Island artist and former nursing pal arrived, then little John who has a pal who knee caps people in Brisbane (or possibly Adelaide). He used to live in Adelaide but maybe moved to Brisbane so he could be incognito. Either way we moved onto a very stout bottle of 14 degree wine in the 27 degree heat. After 5 of them I sneaked back with the washing and then dodged down to the railway station to meet the Dodge himself who had navigated easily the road, rail and air trip from Edinburgh. Hard to believe it is that easy to have left you house and 12 house later had lunch in Santander and then dinner in Fromista. He sneaked up and blindsided our Paul, the video of which will be posted shortly. A master stroke having the neutrals there and off we went to tea.
Sorry Paul ya dafty, you're now sharing a room!
The accommodation tally for 5 nights now stands at 85 euro a nice balance of twin rooms and upper market albergue!
Monday - October 3 WALKING DAY 16/34 19km to Carrion des los Condes - we will take the normal route out and then the river route through fields culminating in a 5km walk at the side of the road from Villalcazar de Sirga to Carrion. Staying at the far end of town in the 35 euro posh gaff.
There are good places for breakfast stops 3k out of town and after them you then take the river route - turn right at the bridge - and its a pleasant stroll in the country. 5km further down is an oasis with a water fountain and if the cafe is open you can use the facilities, otherwise its a hedge. Villacazar de Sirga is another 6k down and has a very old, or as I said to Milton and Diane a very very old church. They took a look inside and confirmed it was, "a very very old church" which came with a "very very grumpy concierge wanting to close his building!"
As Milton and Diane were also staying at the Hotel Zoilo I thought it wise I book. Booking.com proved very useful and I quickly had two room for 70 euros each. I hate the idea of strolling into town and finding the place I want to stay at is full, but equally these apps are out there so an element of planning is mandatory nowadays or you must relax about staying in albergues. The Dodge and Paul were ahead of us by 90 minutes, I was going to say a football field, but thats 90 yards, they were ahead of us by a match!
Stu and I are slow starters and enjoy a long breakfast stop and can fritter away half an hour just putting our boots on after lunch but be motored through the afternoon and caught up with the boys in Carion des los Condes. They'd checked in, had a shower, siesta and were now out for a good bevy! Ok we were now behind by 2 hours but we'd arrived. Having checked in we got a drink at the bar and headed back into town for a menu del dia. We decided just to graze.
Accommodation is now 120 euro for 6 nights. Bang in line with 20 euro a night, but for how long!
I will update the next stage in the next few days as we got the 16 euro bus to Leon
Tuesday - October 4 Bus to Leon and off to Jamon Jamon. We stayed at the Posada Regia Leon, 100euro for the two twin rooms and a deal on breakfast for 5euro each.
We'd stayed in the San Zoilo so it was great to have a long lie and go into town for breakfast at 10:30. I think it might've been 11am by the time I arrived but it was good to to take the stroll of 1km to the bus stop, aka the cafe at the start of Carrion de los Condes.
The bus was a bit late when it rolled into town to dump some people off and pick up another 20 to litter along the meseta! So we left around 12 and arrived about 2:15 and went up to the hotel, waylaid by only one beer. Leon is the capital of free pinchos although Ponferrade does rival it. We dumped the bags at the hotel and headed to Jamon Jamon. 5 euros for 4 wines and 4 pieces of cheese, bread and 12 pieces of meat. Embutidos, Queso y Pan. It doesn't get any better, but we also went to see Jesus Gonzalez at La Trebede. He was the first guy to recognise me and considering I only drink in his bar once a year, I'm not exactly local, but I do tend to arrive about the same time every year. Stuart and Paul had gotten pictures last year so after a vino tinto in the shade we moved across the square to the sunshine.
Roger was getting the bus back to Santander in the morning so after another 15 wines we went early to bed about midnight and got up to early for breakfast. It opened at 8am and we were there far too early, normally a 2am finish ensures a 9:30 breakfast but today we were hitting the 9am buses.
150euro for 7 nights is our running total for accommodation.
Oct 5 - Roger got the Wednesday bus service to Santander via Oviedo and Paul, Stu and I got the bus to Astorga. Stu and I got off at Hospital d'Orbigo and Paul headed up to get our accommodation. The route from Hospital D'Orbigo is entertaining if you go off piste. There is a longer alternative route which we took and goes up into the mountains and then down into Astorga. On arrival Paul had completed the huge list of tasks we'd given him. A bed was secured in a 12 bed dorm at 10euro, its just after the Hotel Gaudi and is a great Albergue. This was the first time we went to a shop and bought food and drink. 33euros goes a long way and we had the kitchen to ourselves. Thereafter we walked back down to the main square and the last cafe/bar on the right served us 1euro vino with superb wee pincho pizzas. It looked like a 3 euro place so we were stunned and had another 2.
The 10pm Albergue shut down meant we had to follow the yellow arrows back through the town to the albergue to our stash of vino tinto and so we did!
A cheap day and the accommodation ticker ticks back to 160euro for 8 nights.
Oct 6 Astorga to Rabanal is 20km, 24/34. More trees on this stretch once you get past the towns and into the hills. The first 5km is largely around the roads. The next 5km to Santa Catalina is rising trails as you head into the mountains. Another coffee stop before we reach the cowboy town El Ganso. The new albergue here looks superb. Its just after the cowboy bar, 100m probably. I dont know how many beds it has or if its just a tienda with rooms, but we cracked on up the hill to Rabanal. This part of the trail is quite exposed for 4km before the last 2km in the woods tripping over tree roots.
A new hostal on the very edge of town on the left caught my eye and we had to go in. It was superb, 2 months old and 25 each for a twin and 30 for a single. The snorer got the single and we showered and headed into Rabanal. After walking up the hill to the top we wandered down to the old albergue where we sat outside shooting the breeze with Karen from Australia. She was happy drinking in Albergues but like us would always choose twin rooms with her pal Louise. Back down the hill for Stuart to feed cats with his menu del dia. Well, we say feed cats but there was lemongate. Suffice to say, the cat which followed Stu everywhere....is no longer his friend.
By this time we were ready to head back to the Hostal and it was time to move onto bottles. The hopitalero was really getting into us and so were the locals. Marcos told us how beautiful it was down at Monforte de Lemos and I knew we could get a train there and then another one back up to Sarria. More drink followed and then some pinchos, then toothgate. My front teeth have never been particularly strong since I gave up smoking. The tar had been holding everything together slowly left the building over the last 10 years and I've had more teeth out and fillings redone than ever. Before I go on too long, I bit into some embutidos and next thing I heard a crunch I didn't expect to hear. Once I fished the broken piece of tooth out of my mouth, I rinsed with red wine and got on with my map plans with Marcos. More drink, then finally bed. In the morning we had a bottle of red in the room, Oops, sorry guys!
Oct 7 Friday we get to Cruz de Ferro - then down to El Acebo an easy up hill WALKING DAY 18km walk 25/34. Its very steep downhill in parts so we stopped in El Acebo at the big new place at the end of town and had a swim in the ice bath pool. Its 20m long so two lengths and your fingers went white whilst all other digits disappeared.
Stu had hammered on ahead and I was an hour behind as my body really wasn't playing the game. Breakfast and a shower still saw me last out and severely dehydrated. I walked up behind a pack of school kids and found a sock on the route. It was all I could do to bend down and pick it up but I knew how annoying it is to lose one sock so the least I could do was carry it. When I caught the kids I asked the teachers if anyone had lost a sock in my best Spanish. "UH? Perdu?" waving sock. It worked. One kid said yeah, me!
Paul waited for me at Foncebadon and I'm delighted to say I said "hi, toilet water then walk".
At Cruz de Ferro I laid more stones than I care to mention but all is good for people around the world including the two from Dublin who sadly are no longer with us.
On to Manjarin where the curiousity did not kill the cat but saw fat Al chased by a fuckin huge mountain dog, thankfully on a long enough lease to scare me now eat me. As fat pilgrims go I clearly looked like lunch. The pictures are on 500m.wordpress.
A triple room with breakfast cost us 25 euro each taking our accommodation up to 213 euro as we follow one luxury after another.
We met Rebecca from Twickenham and had a great laugh as I got told to lower my voice as I was spoiling this person's tranquillity. As you all know I shout too much when people are only 2 feet away! Many jokes about church and moving table ensued, but very quietly!
Oct 8 saturday walk to Ponferrade and then we went to the train station. We had a plan to go to Monforte but on closer examination, going a bit further on the train meant we could bus straight up towards Eirexe. Job done we arrived at Ourense and couldnt get a place to stay. We jumped a taxi, 6 euro albergue and what a find! Ourense is on the Silver Route from Sevilla and the train journey to get there is as scenic a railway through massive canyons can be. Loads of pictures.
Accommodation 219 euro now for 11 nights
Oct 9 Sunday Bus then WALKING DAY as we got off the bus at Ventas, or 2km away and walked to Eirexe. Our man Jose was on the bar, we shook his hand, booked in 30 euro twin room 25 for a single and had 20-25 bottles of wine, pincho moruno, platters of cheese and hams. Superb. The whole deal when we stay in Eirexe is that you just feel the full on love of the camino. We shared our day there with Dari a Korean out of Dublin and Patrick a Rhode Island dude out of Texas. Dari had finished her masters in English and was doing the Camino before heading home whilst Patrick was heading to Barcelona at the end to maybe do teaching English.
Accommodation 237 euro now for 12 nights
Oct 10 MONDAY - Waking at 8am in the single room I realised I'd lost the boys again. Paul's a 7am fag and out so when I saw the smiley face on the table next to an empty cup I knew he'd been and gone. I bought a bottle of water and said cheerio to Jose and headed down the road. Walking stopping and more walking as I hoped to make our way to bus link to go via LUGO or back via LEON. I finally got a cafe at A brea and thats when I realised they were behind me, still in bed!
So I'll finish the rest later!----TBC.........
Easiest is taxi down to Perdafita O'Cebreiro (4km away on busy twisting road) then we bus to LUGO. The 7.50 from LUGO arrives at 13.40 so its the obvious route, others are discussed below. Stu would get it on Tuesday and Paul and I would decide to get it with him or on the wednesday.
We can take a bus to Arzua which means we might get to stop at the town called Eirexe. The important thing is to make sure Stu makes it to Santander for his tuesday flight. If we can connect with the Santiago to Barcelona bus that arrives at Santander airport at 2.55pm or 6.50pm it will work well. The 7.50 from LUGO arrives at 13.40 or can involve a change after arriving 11am at Oviedo. The change option leaves Oviedo at 11.45 and arrives at the Santander Airport at 14.55. Handy if you want to break your journey with a quick bite to eat.
If we connect with the bus that arrives at Santander airport at 6.50pm it will also work well. The 9.00 from Santiago hits VILLALBA (a taxi from LUGO) at 11.15 before heading through Ribadeo 12.15 then arriving 14.30 at Oviedo. It leaves Oviedo at 15.45 and arrives at the Santander Airport at 18.50. As it goes into Santander first at 18.40 its perfect for a 9pm flight. Either way Monday is our last real walking day. We will wave our camino pals good bye and set our sights on the camino home.
October 11 Tuesday Travel to Santander via Lugo for Stu while we will have a night in Lugo?
October 12 Wednesday leave LUGO @7.50am
Wednesday, 5 October 2016
Monday, 3 October 2016
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