Showing posts with label caminodesantiago. Show all posts
Showing posts with label caminodesantiago. Show all posts

Sunday, 14 September 2025

Biarritz to Pamplona to Burgos to Santander - September 25th 2025

For many years I have hunted the bargains and extolled the virtue of Ryanair and short camino walks. So to find a flight to Biarritz for £21 on September 25th. I'll arrive thursday and head down to Irun or San Sebastian for lunch and then Pamplona. A thursday evening in Pamplona then a bus out to a dorm in Zizur Menor.
Simon and I stayed here before and from here you can walk up the hill to Monte del Perdon. Its quite simply a pilgrimage to say farewell. When John walked up this hill a long long time ago, 2018, I think he galloped up it while Jimmy with his dodgy knees moved at a steadfast 3km per hour.
Jimmy has good knees now but John sadly will never climb that hill again. I like the idea that we leave him at the top of this hill, so thats where I'm putting him. 
 I'll then walk down the hill to Puente La Reina and have a glass of gin and tonic, Larios obviously, in the wonderful dark bar where we went back in 2018. Update - I had a wine, gin seemed too dangerous.
They went home after that day and we would pick it up a year later. So then its off to Estella for saturday night. Sunday in my new favourite albergue in Los Arcos and then Monday night in Logrono.

So quick update, I stayed in Estella monjardin and Viana before Monday in Logroño and yes I'm needing a decision now. Update below.

Tuesday I'll have to make a decision to head to San Sebastian or Bilbao. I loved the albergue in Najera so my operating plan is tuesday in Najera with Wednesday a wander up to Santo Domingo and then a bus to Tosantos and if I've booked the small albergue just before Villafranca Montes des Oca I'll stay there. If I do then I'll walk from there to Cardenuela Rio Pico or stop at San Juan at that fantastic albergue. Frankly I'm spoilt for choice. Ideally I stop and have lunch at the albergue and then walk on for a lete arrival at Cardenuela on thursday. Then I can get to Burgos Friday morning and bus up after lunch to have Friday afternoon in Cafe Iruna in Bilbao, followed by dinner in Santander. Everything leans towards flying back Saturday October 4th. Back for a bit then back over for a trip to Malaga on October 28th scouting Janaury options in Almunecar, before returning November 6th. We plan to stay in Malaga on the first night then 6 nights in Almunecar before heading up to Granada for 2 nights. We're on a tight budget but it seems we can get a place in Malaga for under £80, then £220 for 6 nights and £75 for two nights in Granada. The place in Malaga is by the train station which is handy for the bus to Almunecar. Almunecar is a longer walk but not too bad to the bus station, less than 1km. The bus trips and trains are not too long except the last one when we will get the 9:45 from Granada which arrives at the airport at 11:45 or the 10:15 that arrives 12:30 for our flight at 14:35. The train is the other option but involves a bit of getting off and on and will not be $13.76 a head. £25 for two is a good uber price for 2 hours. Coming in from the airport is simple and we will juump the first train. The next day there are slow and fast buses to Almunecar. The fast bus is at 9 and takes 1 hour 15, while the slower buses are at 11.20 and 12:45 and take an extra 30 minutes stopping at nerja, torre etc. The usual thing is there are options and St Jacques provides. The same applies to the bus on tuesday from almunecar to granada. The fast buses are 1 hour 20 with stops at 9am and 13:00. The 10:45 bus leaves at the best time and arrives probably a good time for getting into the apartment, although the 1pm arriving at 14:20 is probably even better. Leaving the apartment at 10:30-11:30 appeals for a last stroll or a cafe. Then a cafe by the station for the 1pm bus. If however the flat is as superb as we expect we may just stay the entire 10 days and have a day trip to granada. Then we can get up early get the fast bus at 9am and trundle around Granada from 10:20 to 4pm. Being in the mountains the temperature will be lower which may be good or bad. If its 30 at the coast then its respite but if its 12 at night then we have another situation entirely. All this nonsense is about me having too much time to get excited about controlling or managing variables. I often wonder why when I was younger I was so impressionable. Being prepared seemed to be drilled into me or maybe it just found a welcome host. Like the cancer talk, how much was I just a good host for the cancer and hence it developed. Similarly when I was in my rebellious phase I became a lifelong contrarian who keeps calling it out. Its so comprehinsibly off the charts in behavioural analysis is it any wonder I never committed suicide. I always had one more point to make before angrily leaving the stage. When I was younger my suicidal thoughts weren't about not giving another generation a mini me full of anxiety. My suicide was selfishly about making a point when I was backed into a corner, of the show me, I 'll show you. Nowadays with so much more experience when people leave the stage more often than not in their 40's, 50's and 60's, I can only applaud. These people have battled their mental health longer than most, but for me their truth is unique to them and their situation. Its as normal as living in the wrong skin and so ably represented as Kellie Mahoney described Ricky Hatton's career in a voice I only recognised as Frank Mahoney. I know nothing about Frankly Kellie, the book written presumably about Frank becoming Kellie. I applaud the coverage that ensured Kellie's voice was heard at a time when we were commenting on Ricky's mental health. It was hugely emblematic of our times and helped Kellie's comments resonate all the more. I hope it helps all boxing fans and wider society embrace each other. It lead me into how impressionable I was and even now how easily lead I could be into a stark binary choice. Once I was working I developed my ability to see only grey. When I was working I believed there were absolutes but in the main there were more variable than people ever imagined. Its a theory I'd promulgated at University doing Economics over 4 years. I sat the second year exam many times. I refused to let the phillips curve, Laffer curve and a few others be assumed mathematical fact. Each time I'd fail the exam I'd be told I would do that work in 4th year or explore it in a masters or a PHD. I did eventually 'lie', ie present the unexamined 'facts' to pass the exam and get my degree. In truth I felt there were many more unqiue situations when those laws would not apply and over the last 40+ years we've had plenty. I think analysis of the minimum wage encourages a bimodal distribution assessment. There is a squeeze as the lowest paid migrate up and the higher paid migrate down to the minimum wage. The higher paid know they have to get up to the next level or they risk having their wages frozen and being dragged back towards the minimum wage. As I say there are smarter people who studied the subject longer and would be able to postulate more coherent arguments for this growing confusion our society finds itself financially in. The problem with a developing bimodal income distribution means that the wealth concentration just accelerates. Wealth concentration particularly when the passive income from that wealth is not taxed correctly. Whether you're a jobbing contractor or a family trust fund you should pay tax not corporation tax. Ultimately we are all individuals, whether we own a small one person business, run a huge bookies or a few bilion in a family inherited tax wrapper. Its not my job to influence tax policy and I certainly wish it was but I believe there are more qualified voices. I do know back in the day how much I enjoyed it. Explaining simple truths and getting things changed. CREST is the UK's security settlement system. ITs a massive piece of digital infrastructure. Its responsible for £trilliions every year and probably settles £400 million every day. THat's quite a small amount of money changing hands but the whole industry relies on it. Compared to 1984 when there was no infrastructure and the privatisation programme had ground the city's settlement to a halt. I wont bore myself again by recounting how Counterpary risk requirement legislation was brought in to ensure firms like County Nat West with £600million missing needed to have that collateral to continue trading. I tell that story so often. In short, it resulted in the NatWest bank needing to give the broking arm County NatWest the daily shortfall to allow it to trade. The board of Nat West bought Wood Mackenzie as we were the best at settlement. I know as I was there, both before and after university but the story I want to tell today is later. I took a job and a random 10 years later got to explore my economic theories during CREST with the boffins at the Bank of England. They had a user pays mentality and that fitted my psyche. What I needed to do was explain who the hidden users were. It was the first time I'd been involved in the taxation of users for a system. I explored what all the industry participants would benefit from. It was fascinating seeing how easy their heads were being turned from the inital strict criteria they had. Users should pay for the design build and maintenance of the system. That was clear and I agreed non negotiable. What happened next was I introduced who will benefit from the system. Those who benefit are indeed the users but whose gaining most. Who are the chief beneficiaries. Who is price sensitive and who has their hands tied and might indeed be too small to survive. Was the system being designed to get rid of small users who had a build cost of their own to comply. This was one time when I got to fight the corner of the small industry participants whether they be brokers, market makers or registrars. It was a given that the biggest particpants could pay for their interface, from infrastructure build to transaction charging. The crux of the issue for me however was I was now just doing my masters and PHD in front of the Bank of England and the industry. I was asking questions from the audience with banter, and receiving the answer 'you should be up here'. I felt my whole contrarian world of digging deeper than my 2nd year course would let me had finally paid off. It would only be a few years later I would meet the Treasury minister at the Mansionhouse to tell her to sack her speech writer. Angela Knight was not best pleased but she'd been sold a pup by whoever she was briefed. Eddie George had done a much better job at outlining the securuty risk to the UK if the financial system could be so easily corrupted as it had been. I use corrupted when a better description is grind to a halt, but utimately if you want to corrupt a system, grinding it to a halt is good thing. Talisman was a fine system but the users were identical to the users of the Horse Racing industry. They will never come together and agree a way forward. There is far too many ingrained with the belief that the system shouold be bent to them. I suppose that's iherent corruption within the system. I invited the shadow treasury spokesman Alistair Darling a week later to discuss what his constituents would like their employer to be able to do to help divert more wealth to the masses. That's when I realised this New Labour venture was about looking after a new bimodal whilst keeping the wealthy wealthy. A far cry from what I thought he'd done back in his LRC days under Thatcher. I never knew him in those days and I knew already I didn't want to know him now. I passed him onto our traders and let him look at the screens as they went red and blue. The Socialist republic of Stocktrade would have to look elsewhere if they wanted to hand over the factors of production to the workers. That was some couple of weeks and we'd go on to grow organically the firm. Did it improved life for a few or ticked a few boxes, I doubt history will even bother to judge. We enjoyed trying and by the time I'd finished with the city I'd comfortably paid my £1m in tax and was very smug about it. Perhaps my ambition shouldve been to pay £100m in tax. I'm a communist in my thinking. I want to contribute to the pot. I want to maximise the input and output of everyone from their health to their happiness. You dont need wealth, you need a wealthy society. I love that by making Stocktrade grow from £300k to £3m profit we went from paying NI of £40k to £400k, our tax at the end exceeded £1m and personally many of the employees would pay huge sums. I believe strongly in putting money in the kitty in the country I live in. I have never liked when it gets spent on wars and that always results in taxation, getting a bad name. I just wish we had a better word. I enjoyed knowing I had access to use and develop my economic theory. I dont think I'd ever write a book about it, I just keep going of on tangents. So after Pamplona I will climb a hill and witter nonsense to John.

UPDATE FROM LOGROÑO 

I've properly been toiling to eat and also think clearly. I booked Estella for Saturday in my head and Friday in reality. I walked over to puente la Reina then got a bus. I let St Jacques decide and as I rolled into town I knew it would be very tight for the 4pm bus. As I passed the Jakey aka hotel Jakue, I heard it behind me and thought 5:30 it is then. It enabled me to go to the largest ever Larios bar.


I took a few photos had a wine then some tapas in the cafe next to the bus stop. At least at Jacques is feeding me.

The Agora was a good hostel and I'd recommend it. Beds were comfortable and price reasonable. I met a Czechia guy who lives in the Netherlands screwing the bolts on the many solar farms. He liked a drink and I thought I'd lost my key so he let me in. The next morning I found my purse in my pocket. As chilled as I think I am I still know I'm only a moment from a panic. I checked the pocket so many times but these shorts have two pockets and clearly I'd been drinking.
It took me an hour to eat the huevos rotos and chistorra. I am the slowest exhausting eater now.

The next day I again let St Jacques decide via the bus whether I would bus to Los Arcos and walk to sansol or not.

I arrived in Azcueta literally even closer to the bus time and was 20 yards from the stop when I saw the bus hare by. I had had an interesting morning with an American nutter who was missing a stick.

With the decision being up to Monjardin I immediately thought, superb, I won't see the nutter again. Ana the host at the albergue was one of those beautiful old women who just care for you. The more stupid you are, the more she cares. Thanks for a lower bunk, great food and everything including the local guide suggestions.
I got a great picture at the fat end of the town before I got my washing back to hang it up outside where it dried in 40 minutes.
What a vista.

Obviously a few pints while the football was on and after the washing dried.

We had pumpkin soup for dinner lots of it, then I had eggs and sausages. Finally quince with cheese and a walnut. Simple tasty fare washed down with the local Monjardin wine, a joven not a reservation so my throat was fine.

Back up to the pub to leave my hat overnight. Thankfully the danish guys Nikolag, and Frederick, had me covered. While they ate breakfast and I started to grow a panic, they suggested try the bar.
Very easy for them and so difficult for me. I walked up and there it was on the table. 
Honest villamayor monjardin. To be fair they probably just wanted me to collect my rubbish.

It was dark when I walked out. Quickly the sun rose and my legs said run.
I didn't run, I just walked fast like a wee startled rabbit. It was a short trip over and we'll under 3 hours.


Monday, 28 April 2025

Don't panic the power will return and now its Santillana del Mar to St Vicente de Barquera

The power did return and now we head to santillana del mar. What made me chuckle was I say Saint Jacques will provide and of course life will go on.


That is the essence of believing in fate. In my case it's trusting in fate. It's believing in what fate produces is my most majestic belief.

I honestly believe that fate around the corner is like, how would we say, good for me. I don't feel uncertain or uncomfortable. I honestly feel strongly that it will be new experience. I find that good things happen when you encounter things you weren't expecting.
I also get shit scared that I'm bluffing. I was so delighted when we stuck to the high road on our way to St Vincente de Barquera. It meant that when we did finally join the road it was short lived and we were able to get back away from the traffic and onto the beach. The stretch of coastline is quite simply magnificent, so its well worth doing again. We had got the bus to Santillana del MAr and whilst you think you'll see the sea what you get is a wee medieval town centre with everything a bit overpriced for the likes of me. The hotel we stayed in by the green was the better part of town as I found the city centre like the centre of most of the camino towns in Northern Spain, old and attractive. I found Santillana had cobbles like Pamplona, Ponferrade or Puente La Reina. Does the wee castle of Ponferrade triump over them all, for me visually yes. I maybe shouldve read some marketing literature to see why it was so good but instead we wandered found a couple of places and chilled. Next day we took off early from our lovely wee hotel. It was very reasonable, so that appealed to my modest means, and we had breakfast thrown in. Their electrics werent fully restored, a common theme as I dug out cash instead of card. I'd brought 600 with me so it proved handy. Its no suprise to see everyone has a way of getting around booking.com fees and later on in Burgos I paid 402 euro in cash and saw that the owner had rejected my booking owing to a card issue. There was no problem with getting the keys and it was a great price for 5 days in the city centre so I've no problem with it. It could unnerve you if you were travelling on a hot day and it looked like your booking had been cancelled while you had a siesta but I'd not been walking, had a receipt and so just accepted it was a normal way to operate. Taxes, fees and commissions are dodged the world over by the rich, the poor and everyone in between. When we left Santillana the route takes you up and down. Its a brilliant meander through quiet country roads as you walk 8km to get to the town that was 5km away when you started. We're on camino now, I mused, properly walking round in circles away from the noise. Our first stop was at the top of the hill with a church. I thought I'd get to light candles, I was wrong. I did get to put sun cream on, drink the juice and eat my food. We enjoyed a good 20 minute break and stretch. I like to support the cafes by going in at the every opportunity. The truth is its ok to bring your own food and stop on a bench where the views are magnificent. After doing this for 18 years I think that is by far my greatest lesson, just chill. Once we'd climbed the hill we were always going to go down and so we did until we got to the town at half way. We were given a choice to go down the hill and bypass the main road in or stick to where it looked like there would be a cafe. We took the high road, keeping the altitude and stopped for coffee. It was great to go to the toilet too. Also the energy levels are so variable I got myself an extra juice. If there's one lesson I need to keep repeating its the dioralyte message. Keeping hydrated, post cancer treatment aside, is the most forgotten thing for me. I remember once I'm done in. Later on as we descended all the way down to the magnificent wee beach, I thought the same. Hydration and hills go hand in hand. As we left sea level and climbed I noticed instead of lagging behind Simon, I was striding passed him. Considering I was out on my feet upon hitting the first hill out of Castro Urdiales I was well chuffed. It was a 15 minute hill. I took a lot of pictures back to the town. I also stood for ages admiring the view down to the hotel by the beach. It got better the higher we climbed although Simon wasnt getting much chance to admire it. I was really confused about how I had suddenly found my legs. It was exceedingly unusual. When we got to the top there was a little garden with fountains. The gardeners were in and it was a bit noisy but totally worthy of a stop. We took the water, got our breath back and soldiered on. Our next stop was as a result of keeping to the high ground. I saw a really nice cafe but Simon figured it was a wedding. We didn't see any other pilgrims but having said that, you rarely do on this stretch as there are a few ways to go and the Norte is quiet. When we did finally stop it was a great piece of cake. The local restaurant is a destination place. Most people arriving did so in cars and the tables were all being dressed for lunch when we arrived. I had a similar cake later in St Vicente de Barquera and it wasn't in the same league. We paid half the 5 euro we'd paid up the hill but quality is quality. I like treating myself on a 2 euro item not a 200 euro item. When we were walking the beach it was simply magnificent. There were the surfers, the families, beach games. Its just a big party. We got to a bar, ordered a beer and took another 20 minutes to savour it. Just to feel the ambience is everything.

Tuesday, 2 May 2023

Day 5 Muxia to finisterre

We didn't make it as far as finisterre as we were staying in CEE we took a detour courtesy of a kind donativo place and €50.
That was where it ended but the beginning was lots of fun too. The logging took our last ounce or 28 grams of strength and also €0.70 as the juice machine made us think we could get sustenance.


We started out in our apartment in Muxia fully aware there were few stops so we better go to the supermarket. 
Simon had gone the night before and with the exception of opening the flat door it was superb. 

We had milk for our cola cao and nothing to put in our sandwiches, except the bananas we ate at breakfast. Oh and some bags of his favourite mouth drying crisps 🤣
We made the usual Camino mistake and ignored our advice from the night before. There's bound to be somewhere.

Ah yes. Bound to be. That's when St Jacques laughs and doesn't provide!
We walked and took pictures. It's a stunning walk out along the shore and the road for about 2km.
We walk up past the parador on the hill.
We walk past the stadium and then it seemed, we walked up.
We walked up and up and up.
We continued to walk up and up and up.
Simon and Stu walked up and up and up.
I started lagging behind and taking pictures and eating my mints. On the plus side I got some lovely pictures but time was ticking along.
We got to the top of the hill after a few hours and arrived in the red herring town of Frixe an hour later.
We walked down past the pink house.
The we went to the hotel who said no coffee here and then back past the pink house.
Then we left to go to Lires.
We'd bumped into our new South Korean pals a bit earlier and I can't say how happy we all were to meet them again on Noia. Simon said they were on our bus from fisterra but as we joined at Cee we just sat down and never acknowledged them. We can be so ignorant, a great pilgrim trait.
We were past it when we arrived in Lires but found solace in the food and drink. No pictures as we were eating. Suddenly energy let us see the sea views.

When we left we had a good clip about us but as we were debating road or trail you sensed the worst.
Another stop saw us enjoying the shade.
Water was low and time was high. It was now 4pm and we had planned to taxi.

We were 8 km from Cee. We paid €50 and were happy to get to a restaurant in CEE.