Wednesday, 4 November 2026

Lovely day Galizano to Somo

A bit of everything today.
Rain as we left Posada la Mies
It was quite heavy by the time we were at the bus stop in Castillo. 
We were waiting on the bus to santona to check it was the right stop.
I always think St Jacques guiding hand takes decisions out of ours.
The comedy turn came when Simon decided to lean against the wall.
We changed tack and got the bus to Santona and then got a coffee and got back on the same bus again for Galizano.
This Jiminez bus is fairly new so a very useful addition in Cantabria. Some of the roads are really not well traversed by pilgrims so the traffic can be very dangerous. Getting the bus to Galizano transforms this journey.
We walked into town and got a panaderia then strolled out towards the beach.
It was the first of many stunning backdrops to our cliff edge walk.
Beach after beach. 
Some with pathways down and some with steps.
As you get nearer Loredo you swish through the Pampas grass.
Then wade along the beach, past a caravan park with a cafe and then onto a boardwalk.
After that it is a forest walk through trees passing the odd construction.
The sound of the sea is stunning. We grabbed a shandy in a wee pub with a trumpet plant.
You fall out of the woods into Somo and re-orient yourself where the beach is and where it's the other side, Santander that you see.

Time for the boat ride.

Sunday, 1 November 2026

Lazy day Cardenuela Rio Pico to Burgos

I left Saturday vacant so I could do what I want and stay wherever. Sometimes you need one on the camino. Often in my case. As it turned out I didn't go to Miranda de Ebro, Haro or any of these potential hot spots.
I woke up my usual dazed and confused self, showered and got on my way by 8:40.
I waved farewell to the town square and headed back the way to see if the cafe at the edge of town was open. It wasn't so I got an extra 1000 steps and no breakfast. 

As I reached the edge of town I realised the high path might be off the road and indeed it was. Nice to venture up and have a look instead of marching blindly on.
Brilliant views compared to street level and safer for sure. It was the old railway.
The sign was a bit squint but I got the drift. Some miner Brit in 1902 was building a railway to move those precious ores, the small and big earth's we still mine and regard as more important than life.
Soon I was in Orbaneja at the strawberry tree. Fascinating fruits.
It was a slow day so I took time out at the water stop. I'd taken my time, sat down a bit and had wasted an hour. I felt shit. I had a free Saturday in Spain and I didn't know what to do.


I took the usual 55 mins to walk around the airport and as I got to the end I realised I could stay on Burgos instead of going to Miranda, st Jacques could decide. Bus or coffee would be dependant on if a bus was there. It was. I got bus.

Next thing I'm getting off bus and wandering in Burgos.

After a coffee I decided to walk down to one of the hotels booking were selling me and ask in person.

Puerta Burgos was one Stu and I had stayed at. It was now 11am so nobody checking in or out. Just two people at the desk who I could smile warily at and ask if they had a room. It's now called Hotel B & B, a chain apparently. Yes they had a room and at €84 with a room key at 11am I paid up and went for a shower. Pure luxury getting in early. My mood rapidly lifted as I lay down and thought yeah, day off in Burgos.

I had a breakfast stop which became lunch with a beer at my football cafe. Then I walked the river bank and went to the cafe by the Biblio. A wee wine and tapa in Scorchio sunshine.

As it went to shade I moved to the tables 200m away. More wine and tapa then to the cafe near our flat. The sun moved again and I did too.

I then went down to Los Herrerios but alas it was now 4:30 and closed. Pancho looked like it was shutting too so I went for a promenade to warm up. It was freezing in the shade. 
I got to the main entrance to the cathedral and took some heat. 
Mr Wolf and the Halloweeners were out in full regalia. They love dressing up.

The sun moved again and I was off. It was 5:30 time to go indoors and get a bar I knew I could watch the football scores in. I love the fishy dish in the scallop shells and had two of them and a sardines with two wines. Wines were now 5-1 up. Not too bad as that was a good 4 hours and 10,000 steps. 

It was now 6:30pm so I headed for the hotel now and just as I got close I saw the betis game was on. 
A quick wine and tapa then I spied a bar which looked very good for later.  Cafe Forteleza

I walked past and lo behold the palace game is on and spurs look right up for it. I had to pop in for one. No get home, warm up and come back out.

Back to hotel for a 10 mins siesta. All wrapped up and we're off again. I watched spurs and then villa then headed to la industrial.

The food was amazing.
No idea what I was eating. It was served in a mussel shell mince and cheese in a bread crumb. I sprayed the juice on. They told me what it was as I had suggested aguardiente. They said no, it's......
I loved the whole hour and I just ate Pulpo skewers, all sorts even a chocolate coulant. Drank wine, loads, thought it would be €50 or at least €40 and it was only €24. I gave them €30. Thank you.
Mental what a great day and night. It's a good time to head north for a swim.

Friday, 30 October 2026

Najera to Azofra to Ciruena to Santo Domingo de last Calazadas

A long day made longer by a trip to the bank. 
I don't mean the river as I had to cross it again.
The market was on. It was game on and I got completely mugged by the bank, not the market.
Such a schoolboy error but I just conceded defeat as I knew I would need cash before I got here tonight.
3 things went wrong and I'll just leave it at that. I say 3, make that 4 my photography was so bad I focused on the spray not the church. 4 things, a bad start.
Luckily I calmed myself down and walked to Azofra. Big hill, takes 15 mins and a lot of heavy breathing. Once up you just paddle along for another hour then you see the town.
Along the way you're reminded of where Harry was caught short. They're still trying to pump it out from 2011.
I love Azofra as it had a special effect on me. I ordered omelette Francesca and a coffee. I usually just take tortilla but I thought I would mix it up. I even said yes to queso.
Pestered by a cat I just persevered. The cat went around to where the potable water fountain is. Well that's my story.

Wednesday, 28 October 2026

Navarette to Ventosa then Najera

I'm having another short day and documenting as I go so I do 2 physio stops. My leg is goosed, back is great and no problem with cramp now. 2 out of 3 is grand.
i love the pottery place on the edge of town. I just don't need to carry more stuff.

Delighted with the view of those mountains. Every time I'm here I stare for hours. 
The pictures never do them justice. I take a moment, then another moment. 
I zoom in and zone out.

I love it. I saw d today would be 1-2pm Ventosa and 5pm Najera. We will see. I bend readily to the will of St Jacques as any wise pilgrim would. I make a plan and let it change. Some is my idiotic behaviour and some is genuinely new circumstances, opportunities that you should be enjoying.
This water tap 40 minutes out of Navarette is superb. Next time I will remember I don't need to pack a litre or two extra. I felt like a good golf as I waved the kids behind me through. This is at the wine co-op vitivinicola de Sotes.

This has been gloriously lazy. I reached the turn off for Ventosa and did a quick stretch. I'd been walking at least 20 minutes after all. 
The art on this stretch is gorgeous and it's a shame so many have the foot down and walk past it. 
I laugh because that's exactly what Simon and I did in 2007 and probably David and Dad. The wee perplexed laddie looking up at the grown ups conjures up that image. Am I really gonna fuck up as badly as you two.
The honey shop was closed. La Mieleria was open last time and I didn't go in. This time it's closed and I was heading in the locked gates when I realised. So it was nearer 12:30 I arrived here.
Extra stops all over the place now.
i saw the place where the non Ventosa folk rejoin us renegades.

I went up the steps to the viewing gallery fully aware I might have to club down.
How happy was I the path is there.
Steps, the new way forward. I wouldn't have said that in 2007.
On to Vivanco
Down the valley
Into the new bridge
What a day.
Another stretch completed and now the famous poem wall
Surely beer soon, it's closed.

ya beauty
Cross the bridge and I can get a shower