Portugalete to Castro Urdiales

What a brilliant day.

Yes there was a cheat involved after Stuart and I nearly killed ourselves in September.

We stayed at hotel Kaia in Zierbena.

Short hop up the hill in the morning. We were in La Cuesta in no time. Breathless for sure.

Then a master step ignoring of the arrows as we went down a beautiful stretch called Bo Mames.

Then via the camping site onto La Arena.

The surf was up unlike most of the surfers.

I kept trying to catch them upright.

They on the other hand liked a wipe out.

Keen as the  mustard they all kept slipping on.

What a fantastic morning. It was just 10am and the cafe Stuart and I stopped at a month ago in early afternoon was a joy for breakfast with 8 different hot tortilla fresh from the pass.

We walked down to the beach and took an hour to enjoy our luck. 

The weather was stunning..the heat was just right at about 18°. 

As November 1st temperatures go, I can only say thank you. Ok I can't use a camera or post portrait on the blog. I still say thank.you.

We crossed the beach, got on the bridge arrived in Pobena and saw the route is still diverted. No cliff work for.me and that was fine.

We went up the road, through the wooded area, breathed very heavily as if I gave up smoking that morning. 

I was taking pictures of a thing that allowed me a rest.the one above was from a bench Stuart and I paused at for 15 not 5 minutes.

As we came down the hill some of the cows looked very menacing. I looked around the field to check none would charge me. Another stalling tactic, even going downhill. I'm so tired was a regular thought.

I just don't do a good job of taking on fuel. I kept thinking if trump hadn't started his war there wouldn't be a global shortage of baklava.

I knew now my plan to take the long route to Castro urdiales would be cast adrift on the altar of exhaustion. 

We went the road route. Up to the garage and then over and down to the bar that was closed. I thought this would make it bad. 

Instead it was superb. I'll continue in Part 2.

Lovely day Galizano to Somo

A bit of everything today.

Rain as we left Posada la Mies

It was quite heavy by the time we were at the bus stop in Castillo. 

We were waiting on the bus to santona to check it was the right stop.

I always think St Jacques guiding hand takes decisions out of ours.

The comedy turn came when Simon decided to lean against the wall.

We changed tack and got the bus to Santona and then got a coffee and got back on the same bus again for Galizano.

This Jiminez bus is fairly new so a very useful addition in Cantabria. Some of the roads are really not well traversed by pilgrims so the traffic can be very dangerous. Getting the bus to Galizano transforms this journey.

We walked into town and got a panaderia then strolled out towards the beach.

It was the first of many stunning backdrops to our cliff edge walk.

Beach after beach. 

Some with pathways down and some with steps.

As you get nearer Loredo you swish through the Pampas grass.

Then wade along the beach, past a caravan park with a cafe and then onto a boardwalk.

After that it is a forest walk through trees passing the odd construction.

The sound of the sea is stunning. We grabbed a shandy in a wee pub with a trumpet plant.

You fall out of the woods into Somo and re-orient yourself where the beach is and where it's the other side, Santander that you see.

Time for the boat ride.

Lazy day Cardenuela Rio Pico to Burgos

I left Saturday vacant so I could do what I want and stay wherever. Sometimes you need one on the camino. Often in my case. As it turned out I didn't go to Miranda de Ebro, Haro or any of these potential hot spots.

I woke up my usual dazed and confused self, showered and got on my way by 8:40.

I waved farewell to the town square and headed back the way to see if the cafe at the edge of town was open. It wasn't so I got an extra 1000 steps and no breakfast. 

As I reached the edge of town I realised the high path might be off the road and indeed it was. Nice to venture up and have a look instead of marching blindly on.

Brilliant views compared to street level and safer for sure. It was the old railway.

The sign was a bit squint but I got the drift. Some miner Brit in 1902 was building a railway to move those precious ores, the small and big earth's we still mine and regard as more important than life.

Soon I was in Orbaneja at the strawberry tree. Fascinating fruits.

It was a slow day so I took time out at the water stop. I'd taken my time, sat down a bit and had wasted an hour. I felt shit. I had a free Saturday in Spain and I didn't know what to do.

I took the usual 55 mins to walk around the airport and as I got to the end I realised I could stay on Burgos instead of going to Miranda, st Jacques could decide. Bus or coffee would be dependant on if a bus was there. It was. I got bus.

Next thing I'm getting off bus and wandering in Burgos.

After a coffee I decided to walk down to one of the hotels booking were selling me and ask in person.

Puerta Burgos was one Stu and I had stayed at. It was now 11am so nobody checking in or out. Just two people at the desk who I could smile warily at and ask if they had a room. It's now called Hotel B & B, a chain apparently. Yes they had a room and at €84 with a room key at 11am I paid up and went for a shower. Pure luxury getting in early. My mood rapidly lifted as I lay down and thought yeah, day off in Burgos.

I had a breakfast stop which became lunch with a beer at my football cafe. Then I walked the river bank and went to the cafe by the Biblio. A wee wine and tapa in Scorchio sunshine.

As it went to shade I moved to the tables 200m away. More wine and tapa then to the cafe near our flat. The sun moved again and I did too.

I then went down to Los Herrerios but alas it was now 4:30 and closed. Pancho looked like it was shutting too so I went for a promenade to warm up. It was freezing in the shade. 

I got to the main entrance to the cathedral and took some heat. 

Mr Wolf and the Halloweeners were out in full regalia. They love dressing up.

The sun moved again and I was off. It was 5:30 time to go indoors and get a bar I knew I could watch the football scores in. I love the fishy dish in the scallop shells and had two of them and a sardines with two wines. Wines were now 5-1 up. Not too bad as that was a good 4 hours and 10,000 steps. 

It was now 6:30pm so I headed for the hotel now and just as I got close I saw the betis game was on. 

A quick wine and tapa then I spied a bar which looked very good for later.  Cafe Forteleza

I walked past and lo behold the palace game is on and spurs look right up for it. I had to pop in for one. No get home, warm up and come back out.

Back to hotel for a 10 mins siesta. All wrapped up and we're off again. I watched spurs and then villa then headed to la industrial.

The food was amazing.

No idea what I was eating. It was served in a mussel shell mince and cheese in a bread crumb. I sprayed the juice on. They told me what it was as I had suggested aguardiente. They said no, it's......

I loved the whole hour and I just ate Pulpo skewers, all sorts even a chocolate coulant. Drank wine, loads, thought it would be €50 or at least €40 and it was only €24. I gave them €30. Thank you.

Mental what a great day and night. It's a good time to head north for a swim.

Najera to Azofra to Ciruena to Santo Domingo de last Calazadas

A long day made longer by a trip to the bank. 

I don't mean the river as I had to cross it again.

The market was on. It was game on and I got completely mugged by the bank, not the market.

Such a schoolboy error but I just conceded defeat as I knew I would need cash before I got here tonight.

3 things went wrong and I'll just leave it at that. I say 3, make that 4 my photography was so bad I focused on the spray not the church. 4 things, a bad start.

Luckily I calmed myself down and walked to Azofra. Big hill, takes 15 mins and a lot of heavy breathing. Once up you just paddle along for another hour then you see the town.

Along the way you're reminded of where Harry was caught short. They're still trying to pump it out from 2011.

I love Azofra as it had a special effect on me. I ordered omelette Francesca and a coffee. I usually just take tortilla but I thought I would mix it up. I even said yes to queso.

Pestered by a cat I just persevered. The cat went around to where the potable water fountain is. Well that's my story.