Homeward bound - well that’s the plan

Homeward bound - well that's the plan

After we finished walking we took the bus out of benavente to La Bañeza and then another one to Astorga before finally getting on to Leon.

In short this meant coffee in benavente, tea, beer and ice cream in La Bañeza, vino and tapas in Astorga before saying hello to Jesus Gonzalez in la trebeje.

I'm like a kid in a sweet shop, in fact I'm like a 55 year old in Leon. I love everything about the place and it seems to reciprocate with ardour.

Having based ourselves at the petit leon above Jamon Jamon it was a bit silly of us to arrive on a Tuesday- it's Jamon jamon's day off. So we walked left down Calle de las cavilles across the main precinct and down Calle Cervantes where untold tapas riches reside. I don't know why it's cheaper over here I've just found it is and the food is better - with one exception Jamon Jamon the peerless in free tapa and cheap n cheerful wine. They have a good Albariño as well as the usual Roble to be found in Leon if you do want to spend a bit more. As I say I know it's closed on a Tuesday so kicked myself senseless that day d be leaving too early on Wednesday to enjoy it's magical experience.

What I especially like is the way you migrate through the tapa offerings to the alcoholic gods. In one place we started on patatas bravas with some pulpo before being offered the chicken wings and the croquetas with our next wine. At La trabeje, Jesus, our host and I go back 11 years now and it's always a great feeling having a drink where the landlord knows you. His offerings started with chilli con carne and we had Manchego cheese to finish with. The portions are ridiculously large as Simon pointed out in 2007 on www.500m.wordress.com also known as the fat boys diaries, when we first set out on the month long culinary hiking experience.

His bar is a cornocopia of shite on the wall, from pictures of tanks being stopped by a girl with flowers in the 50's to old typewriters, sewing machines and record players. I'm sure there's pictures on the website but it's like many bars in Scotland that have left their deco alone and there's always something new to the eye.

I kicked a ball from Pamplona to Santiago and got Jesus to sign it in 2013. I'd got loads of people to sign it from Albergue owners, pellegrinos and his was the first bar. He relished the moment and I didn't have the heart to tell him a ball point would be more reliable than his beautiful calligraphy with a wet pen. I didn't kick the ball until I was well out of Leon in the hope it might dry, but it didn't. Shame as he took a good 5 minutes. People have had tattoos in less time I thought but it was a great moment. The next time I kicked a ball was 2014 from Logrono to Leon and I left it in the park for the kids. The next time I was back it had gone and I'm guessing they got it as I've never seen a parky with one.

Stu and I made our way back via Cervantes where we ate something simple but to be honest, I've no idea. We crossed over to the other side of our hotel and the tapa isn't so plentiful but we'd eaten our fill so just stumbled around in ever decreasing circles until we hit the hay. Luckily on a Tuesday Leon tends to quieten down by 12:30-1am so we were in bed early enough for me to fall out again at 8:45 to start the trip back down the ruta de la plata. Zamora, Salamanca, Caceres and Seville before finally getting to Malaga and meeting Jackie and Caitlin.



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