Sunday, 12 April 2020

Covid 19 update on our September 20th camino

There's a lot of symmetry on the 20th in 2020 as we all get out of beds at 2:20 am to catch the 7am flight, or so I thought, until we learned about 19, no not the day before but Covid-19, of course.

So I'm now casting an eye to easyjet flights to see if Bilbao looks more or less likely in September. The good news is the prices are going up in price so demand is there!

Albergue Santiago Apostol in Puente la Reina
We now think our big holiday of the year will be in 2021 but on the off chance we can get away we will meet everyone off the plane on the 20th as we'll go via Bordeaux, Barcelona or Bayonne. Who knows what will be open and whether the UK's approach will make us more or less welcome.

5 will arrive in Bilbao at 10:30 a.m. local time and after baggage and passports our 11.10 bus will take us into the centre of Bilbao for 11:30 a.m.

Just in time for a coffee at cafe Iruna before the clock ticks onto 12 and a wee beer.

Lunch at 1pm will involve a skewer or two before a stroll down to the river and the old town.

After the old town we head to the station and catch the 15:20 train to Logrono which arrives at 17:51. First Class is 14.75 while standard is 11.50. as the trip is over 2 hours we'll observe the discounted first class rate and travel with a free coffee and extra leg room.


Once in Logrono we will go to the first apartment by bus and train station. This apartment has three bedrooms and has been booked for 5. It could sleep 7 but with just one, albeit luxurious, bathroom we've elected to spread ourselves out.

The price for this one is €110 or €xx per head/bed. The second apartment involved carrying the luggage a bit further but is in the heart of Calle Laurel the ultimate eating and drinking experience in Logrono. As the wine festivities will end about 4am there's no rush to get out early. The second apartment being more central may have more noise but it is perfect for a mid evening collapse! I've only booked this one for 3 so a bedroom each unless a few extra appear over the coming months, not least Stuart.



Haystack on road from Azofra to Cireuna


Bar Seville Azofra

Bar Seville in Azofra with Americans and a Englishman

I've parked many a problem, many a thought on the camino. Bar Seville or even Azofra has seen more adventure than anywhere else on the camino. Simon and I enjoyed the best ever sleep in 2007. Harry and I had the best ever night in 2011 until he fell and bled over the whole of the back stairs, toilets and his bed. In 2013 with Diego and my many camino friends. Stuart and I have stayed 3 times and thats included the annexe and also famously on the floor when they locked our room in April 2019. I stayed in September 2019 and they were still apologising but I love the town.

Diego with lady in Azofra

My favourite woman from Rotterdam and 2 Danes

Najera from the west bank of the river

The fountain is a clue to this camino location!


Descending, before rising to Navarette - I cant remember!



One of the things that I discovered during the pilgrimage was laughter. I hadn't realised that I loved life so much. It's never been anything that I've tired from but the wonder of new situations is joyous.

I am digressing from the story of September 2020.

The stages from Logrono to Burgos are some of the best vistas on the camino. While Jimmy & John will bus or taxi on to Azofra to walk to Santa Domingo we may take an alternative route from those on offer.

Vineyards as you climb out of Logrono
Logrono to the park on the edge of town 5km.

Entrance of park to exit of park 3km
Logrono with lake on way to Navarette

Walk over to Navarette 5km up hill then downhill then up the hill again.






Naverette is a great wee hill top town in the Rioja surrounded by vineyards. It has both hotels, hostal and albergues as well as many bars and restaurants.

The walk there gives lovely views back across Logrono and then ahead to Navarette.

view looking back at Logrono lake
Navarette to Ventosa is a 9km walk through the vineyards, with a 1km stretch alongside the motorway. Ventosa has two place for lunch or mid morning coffee before we leave for the 11km walk to Najera.

Alternatives include taking a taxi/bus to Ventosa and then stroll through the vineyards to Najera.

Walking to Ventosa takes 1hr 30-2hr very gently uphill and the walk to Najera is 2hr 30-3hr, mostly downhill.

Najera has a fast bus to Santo Domingo (24km) or a slow bus to Azofra (8km), Ciruena (11km) both stops on the camino on route to Santo Domingo.

Potato sorting in Santo Domingo

Walking from Ciruena to Santo Domingo

Big Arrows in Santo Domingo de las Calzadas

Leaving San Juan for the twilight easy
walk to Ages (3km) and Atapuerca (6km)


When you leave Bar Seville in Azofra you can walk to Ciruena and stop at the golf club for breakfast or lunch before the rolling hills to Santo Domingo.

One of my favourite walks is the short 2 hours from Ciruena to Santo Domingo de las Calzadas. IF you dont have a lot of energy or capacity to walk, you can feel this section of the camino by doing this short stretch.

Sunflowers as you leave montes de oca and arrive at San Juan

Next up after Santo Domingo is a mixture of walking along the road or in the countryside. The walk to Granon is near the road but enjoyable nonetheless. The next stage to Redecilla del Camino is excellent. Thereafter I'd jump the 11km to Belorado and stay there before walking to Tosantos (5km) Villambistia (3km) Espinosa (1km) Montes de Oca (3km). If you want to carry on to St Juan de Ortega its 12km or a good 3-4 hours. I've done it in 2 hours 30 but its all to do with the temperature as only some of it is shaded.

Last picture of the famous 5 shirt!

Bar on the way down from Cruz de Ferro at El Acebo

Sylvie, Diego and Simone in San Juan de Ortega
The church in San Juan has the sun shine altar to front door during the equinox

Canadiennes Je Pense - Michel-Andre et Bernadette depuis Quebec

Great bar in villafranca montes de oca by
the bus stop but sadly closed in 2018

After San Juan then Ages we get to Atapuerca

Great Hostal Santa Fe in Cardenuela del Rio Pico
superb single rooms and Menu Del Dia

San Juan de Ortega cafe - good menu del dia

A cow on the hill between Atapuerca and Burgos

When deciding whether to go via Castanares or Burgos via the river

The next morning will see the walking begin and a gentle stroll it will be after the bus out to Azofra.

Azofra to Santo Domingo de Las calzadas is a well trodden section largely away from any roads. As it meanders through fields you get lost in the fresh air as you dander, daunder gently along. After two hours you pass a giant haystack. Its there every year and I don't know if they ever move it or just keep it as a glorious evolving sculpture. After the haystack you have a 15 minute gentle hill and then you arrive at the first water stop and 200m later, the golf club in Ciruena.

After coffee, tortilla or whatever you venture through the ghost town reminiscing about where the housing crisis first broke. In 2007 it was pretty quiet and not much has changed. 

After crossing the town there's a wee garden with a water fountain before the play park. Fill your water and prepare yourself for a magical 6km stretch of rolling hill and magnificent vistas of Santo Domingo de la Calzadas.

Once in town you'll follow the Amarillo fleschas, yellow arrows, to the hotel.